Stage Fort Park Rock Climbing
|GPS:||42.605, -70.677 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||3,015 total, 23/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007|
|Admins:||Joe M., Old Timer|
DescriptionThis is essentially two boulders in a park on Cape Ann which emphasize friction technique. One is a single, large, ocean front, slabby, granite boulder near Gloucester (probably 40 minutes from Boston) with a sandy base that is probably up to about 30 feet tall at most. The other is a small buttress North & East of the main boulder. Its western face holds most of the routes. During warm summer times, this area is popular with non-climbers, but then the rock is slippery. A nice traverse exists for the slab aficionados. There is little pro, so these lines are typically top-roped or bouldered. Long slings or ropes are useful for toproping. Nuts, hexes, and old bolts are useful for anchors. There is even a separate listing for this rock (scroll down) on the New England Bouldering Site.
A. various short mixed crack/slabs problems
B. Waterlogged, 8
C. Waterproof, 8
D. Sea Shell, 5, 1p, 30'.
E. Sea Urchin, 7, 1p, 30'.
F. Waver, 7, 1p, 30'.
Large metal plaque (scroll down)
G. Down to the Seas, 5, 1p, 30'.
H. The Deep Six, 9, 1p, 30'.
I. Full Fathom Five, 10+, 1p, 30'.
J. Jaws II, 11
K. Jaws, 10 or V1 photo (scroll down)
L. Shark Bait, 8 or V0 photo (scroll down)
M. Watery, 8
N. Dark Hole, 10
O. Seclusion, 7
P. The Clammer, 9
Q. Unknown, 9
R. Lobsta N Steamas, 7+
Beach Buttress can get wet at high tide
S-V. 4 lines 5.6-5.9
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season