Stage Fort Park Climbing

This is essentially two boulders in a park on Cape Ann which emphasize friction technique. One is a single, large, ocean front, slabby, granite boulder near Gloucester (probably 40 minutes from Boston) with a sandy base that is probably up to about 30 feet tall at most. The other is a small buttress North & East of the main boulder. Its western face holds most of the routes. During warm summer times, this area is popular with non-climbers, but then the rock is slippery. A nice traverse exists for the slab aficionados. There is little pro, so these lines are typically top-roped or bouldered. Long slings or ropes are useful for toproping. Nuts, hexes, and old bolts are useful for anchors. There is even a separate listing for this rock (scroll down) on the New England Bouldering site.

Per Tim McGivern: there are worthwhile boulders within the park as well. There is a boulder near the playground with a few worthwhile lines, a small cliff facing the ocean on the south shoreline, and a couple boulders scattered along the shoreline.

L->R:

Traverse, 11

A. various short mixed crack/slabs problems
B. Waterlogged, 8.
C. Waterproof, 8.
D. Sea Shell, 5, 1p, 30'.
E. Sea Urchin, 7, 1p, 30'.
F. Waver, 7, 1p, 30'.

Large metal plaque (scroll down)

G. Down to the Sea, 5, 1p, 30'.
H. The Deep Six, 9, 1p, 30'.
I. Full Fathom Five, 10+, 1p, 30'.
J. Jaws II, 11.
K. Jaws, 10 or V1, 1p, 30', TR. Photo (scroll down).
L. Shark Bait, 8 or V0, 1p, 30', TR. Photo (scroll down).
M. Watery, 8, 1p, 30', TR.
N. Dark Hole, 10 or V0, 1p, 20', TR.
O. Seclusion, 7, 1p, 20', TR.
P. The Clammer, 9 or V0, 1p, 20', TR.
Q. Unknown, 9.
R. Lobsta 'N Steamas, 7+.

Beach Buttress - this can get wet at high tide.
S-V. 4 lines 5.6-5.9