Elevation: 10 ft
GPS: 42.605, -70.677 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,317 total · 36/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 with updates from Tim McGivern
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
Getting weather forecast...

Description

This is essentially two boulders in a park on Cape Ann which emphasize friction technique. One is a single, large, ocean front, slabby, granite boulder near Gloucester (probably 40 minutes from Boston) with a sandy base that is probably up to about 30 feet tall at most. The other is a small buttress North & East of the main boulder. Its western face holds most of the routes. During warm summer times, this area is popular with non-climbers, but then the rock is slippery. A nice traverse exists for the slab aficionados. There is little pro, so these lines are typically top-roped or bouldered. Long slings or ropes are useful for toproping. Nuts, hexes, and old bolts are useful for anchors. There is even a separate listing for this rock (scroll down) on the New England Bouldering site.

Per Tim McGivern: there are worthwhile boulders within the park as well. There is a boulder near the playground with a few worthwhile lines, a small cliff facing the ocean on the south shoreline, and a couple boulders scattered along the shoreline.

L->R:

Traverse, 11

A. various short mixed crack/slabs problems
B. Waterlogged, 8.
C. Waterproof, 8.
D. Sea Shell, 5, 1p, 30'.
E. Sea Urchin, 7, 1p, 30'.
F. Waver, 7, 1p, 30'.

Large metal plaque (scroll down)

G. Down to the Sea, 5, 1p, 30'.
H. The Deep Six, 9, 1p, 30'.
I. Full Fathom Five, 10+, 1p, 30'.
J. Jaws II, 11.
K. Jaws, 10 or V1, 1p, 30', TR. Photo (scroll down).
L. Shark Bait, 8 or V0, 1p, 30', TR. Photo (scroll down).
M. Watery, 8, 1p, 30', TR.
N. Dark Hole, 10 or V0, 1p, 20', TR.
O. Seclusion, 7, 1p, 20', TR.
P. The Clammer, 9 or V0, 1p, 20', TR.
Q. Unknown, 9.
R. Lobsta 'N Steamas, 7+.

Beach Buttress - this can get wet at high tide.
S-V. 4 lines 5.6-5.9

Getting There

To find this rock, go North of Boston on Hwy 3, go East on Route 128, go to exit 14, go South, go right on Route 127/Western Ave., park nearby. Parking fees may apply. Free parking may be found further from the park.

27 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Stage Fort Park Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Andrew Devine
Lynn, Massachusetts
Andrew Devine   Lynn, Massachusetts
Hopefully I'll be going soon and I'll get a bunch of route pictures to match the "Boston Rocks" routes. If you or someone updates the route info from the book, I can add the pics of each one. Jul 1, 2012
Andrew Devine
Lynn, Massachusetts
Andrew Devine   Lynn, Massachusetts
I got them uploaded. Not sure if you can update the routes, even just by copying the info from the "Boston Rocks". I'd do it but not sure how to edit routes that are already listed. Jul 4, 2012
jim.dangle    
Thanks for adding these.

You should contact the mod, Leo Paik. I'm sure he'd be happy to work with you updating this area.

Jim Jul 9, 2012
Chris McNeil
Anchorage, AK
Chris McNeil   Anchorage, AK
This crag is probably your best bet for dry conditions after a rain on Cape Ann. It offers some great slab lines, a couple crack lines, and a nice boulder. Also this is a short crag directly behind the Stage Fort crag, along with a very nice crack line on the shore the needs to get cleaned out. The "bolts" on top are not for climbing, currently gear anchors are recommended for TR. Jan 22, 2013
trundlebum
Las Vegas NV
trundlebum   Las Vegas NV
A good resource for some early info:
Climbing in Eastern Massachucetts
by Steve with Sam Streibert Hendrick
"" Sep 6, 2013