Elevation: 10 ft
GPS: 42.605, -70.677 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 14,944 total · 90/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2007 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Derek Sullivan, Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
Access Issue: Covid Guidelines Details

Description

This is essentially two boulders in a park on Cape Ann which emphasize friction technique. One is a single, large, ocean front, slabby, granite boulder near Gloucester (probably 40 minutes from Boston) with a sandy base that is probably up to about 30 feet tall at most. The other is a small buttress North & East of the main boulder. Its western face holds most of the routes. During warm summer times, this area is popular with non-climbers, but then the rock is slippery. A nice traverse exists for the slab aficionados. There is little pro, so these lines are typically top-roped or bouldered. Long slings or ropes are useful for toproping. Nuts, hexes, and old bolts are useful for anchors. There is even a separate listing for this rock (scroll down) on the New England Bouldering site.

Per Tim McGivern: there are worthwhile boulders within the park as well. There is a boulder near the playground with a few worthwhile lines, a small cliff facing the ocean on the south shoreline, and a couple boulders scattered along the shoreline.

L->R:

Traverse, 11

A. various short mixed crack/slabs problems
B. Waterlogged, 8.
C. Waterproof, 8.
D. Sea Shell, 5, 1p, 30'.
E. Sea Urchin, 7, 1p, 30'.
F. Waver, 7, 1p, 30'.

Large metal plaque (scroll down)

G. Down to the Sea, 5, 1p, 30'.
H. The Deep Six, 9, 1p, 30'.
I. Full Fathom Five, 10+, 1p, 30'.
J. Jaws II, 11.
K. Jaws, 10 or V1, 1p, 30', TR. Photo (scroll down).
L. Shark Bait, 8 or V0, 1p, 30', TR. Photo (scroll down).
M. Watery, 8, 1p, 30', TR.
N. Dark Hole, 10 or V0, 1p, 20', TR.
O. Seclusion, 7, 1p, 20', TR.
P. The Clammer, 9 or V0, 1p, 20', TR.
Q. Unknown, 9.
R. Lobsta 'N Steamas, 7+.

Beach Buttress - this can get wet at high tide.
S-V. 4 lines 5.6-5.9

Getting There

To find this rock, go North of Boston on Hwy 3, go East on Route 128, go to exit 14, go South, go right on Route 127/Western Ave., park nearby. Parking fees may apply. Free parking may be found further from the park.

29 Total Climbs

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