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Routes in The Amphitheater

Climbing By The Brooks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Runnings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crickets in the Cabbage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dance of Shiva, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disclaimer, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Male Deal, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slick Willard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Description

This cliff-lined nook is southwest of the Pinnacle. It is on the abrupt north flank of Mt. Cutler. A bunch of good routes are located here. The copious trees allow for lots of shade and good summer climbing. Beware the approach is in your face.
Reopened after flood damage! Details

Getting There

Follow the approach as for the West Face or the Pinnacle. From the parking area, 0.85 miles after the canyon entrance, walk across the road, heading west for a few feet. Locate a trail in the trees, on the south side of the road. Follow this through the woods and up a steep scree slope. You will be climbing up the same scree slope as you use for the descent of the Pinnacle or West Face. Look for the first side canyon on your right. Head up this canyon to its end. The climbs are located here. Allow 15 to 30 minutes from the car for this step approach.

L->R (in progress):

A. Slick Willard, 9, 1p, bolts.
B. Climbing by the Brooks, 8, 1p, bolts.
C. Full Male Deal, 10, 2p, bolts, 190'.
CD. Cool Runnings, 1p, 13-, bolts, 100'.

Crickets in the Cabbage, 10+, 1p, bolts, 80'.
The Disclaimer, 11, 1p, bolts.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Amphitheater

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The Full Male Deal
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
The Disclaimer
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Cool Runnings
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Full Male Deal 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
The Disclaimer 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Cool Runnings 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Amphitheater »

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Photos

Austin Martin
Colorado Springs, CO
Austin Martin   Colorado Springs, CO
There is a fairly established trail leading up to The Amphitheater. Begin up the obvious, loose descent of Pinnacle/Crack Parallel, and it begins about 40 yards looker's right. Nov 1, 2016
Pete J. Lardy
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Pete J. Lardy   Colorado Springs, Colorado
I found a piece of climbing gear at the base of the cave today. If it's yours and you can name it, color and all, it's yours. Cheers. Jul 20, 2016
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
Go climb 'em and let us know! Dec 12, 2010
Joshua1979
Colorado Springs, CO
Joshua1979   Colorado Springs, CO
Does anyone have any beta on the gully that is to the left of the amphitheater as you're facing it? I believe Stewart's Climbing Colorado book calls this Raspberry Draw, but there are no routes listed? I have walked through there and have seen bolts but would love to know what's there exactly. Dec 12, 2010
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
I live in Colo Spgs and have climbed the Pinnacle, Crack Parallel, and other routes in North Cheyenne Canyon -- but have been somewhat perplexed as to where "The Amphitheater" actually is, despite the approach instructions on Mtn Project. So, today, after climbing Crack Parallel, I set out to find the Amphitheater on the descent. It is NOT the first one encountered as you descend from the Pinnacle -- it is the next one down. And if you are approaching it going uphill from the road, while it technically lies on the right side of the scree filled descent gully -- it is really just straight ahead (because the descent gully veers left). The entry to the Amphitheater gully/alcove has so many trees that it's not entirely obvious there is much of an alcove there, even though it is very long (deep). Anyway, I've attached a crude map and a picture or two that hopefully will make finding the Amphitheater easier for others. Apr 20, 2010
The Rock and Ice guide to North Cheyenne Canon is available on my website: stewartgreen.com. Follow the links to a PDF file with topos and descriptions. Nov 22, 2004
There seems to be some confusion about who developed this area.

I bolted the entire area; however, I didn't get the first ascent of Climbing by the Brooks. All ofther first ascents are mine. The two pitch climb was orginally named The Full Meal Deal, but Stew accidently called it the Full Meal Deal in his R and I guide.

The cave route needs a lot of cleaning, and maybe a bit of glue too. Looks better than it actually is.

Still plenty of rock to drill. Go for it. Sep 29, 2004
It is a violation of copyright law to scan and give away the intellectual material. However, since I created it, I can. If anyone wants a copy of the North Cheyenne Canyon guide, I will be happy to email it to them. Sep 27, 2003
I hate it when I have the ability to answer my own questions (had to go come and dig through a stack of periodicals to find my R&I). Since I haven't climbed the routes, and know nothing about them I'll take liberally from the authors (working L to R, after Climbing by the Brooks:

The Full Male Deal (5.10c) 2 pitchesCool Runnings (5.12d/13a)Project Cave Route (5.13)The Dance of Shiva (5.12c)Crickets in the Cabbage (5.10d)The Disclaimer (5.11b/c)

Quick note about R&I #95. When i bought my back-issue over a year ago, the person on the other end of the phone informed me I bought the 2nd to last copy. Which may mean that they have no more (or maybe they do). If you're needing a copy I may be able to offer full-colour scans (after I check out the appropriate copyright law to verify this is acceptable). May 28, 2003
Rock & Ice #95 has an article by Stewart Green and Ian Spencer-Green that covers all of this stuff, you can backorder it for a few bucks on their website I think. May 28, 2003
Does anyone know the other lines (especially the bolted route above the fireplace)? May 27, 2003
Went climbing the first weekend in August 2002 at the Amphitheater. All the first bolts were missing on the _easily_ reached first bolts. The routes looked ok, but some of the second bolts look a bit high. Make life easy and take a hanger and nut.

Aug 16, 2002

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