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The Amphitheater
Colorado
> Colorado Springs
> N Cheyenne Canyon
Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage!
Details
Per Steven Armijo: Cheyenne Canyon Road is closed until May 2022 for bridge repairs. Only hiking and biking trail access is allowed into the canyon.
Per Stewart M. Green: the North Cheyenne Canyon was reopened after the floods of 2015.
Per Stewart M. Green: ATTENTION!! The Colorado Springs Parks Department has CLOSED ALL CITY PARKS, including Garden of the Gods, Red Rock Canyon Open Space, and North Cheyenne Canon, to rock climbing for the upcoming Memorial Day weekend.
This is due to record rainfall totals in western Colorado Springs which as caused severe trail and parking lot damage, saturated the sandstone cliffs, and is causing parts of cliffs to break off.
The parks will be re-evaluated on Monday to determine how the closure will last.
Please respect the closures and take care of our precious climbing areas!
Description
This cliff-lined nook is southwest of the Pinnacle. It is on the abrupt north flank of Mt. Cutler. A bunch of good routes are located here. The copious trees allow for lots of shade and good summer climbing. Beware the approach is in your face.
Per Evan C: a helmet is a very good idea, and I wouldn't bring dogs. The routes are directly below Mount Cutler, and it's common for rocks to come down from above. I am not sure if it's because of hikers or just the gravelly nature of the area, but you don't hear them coming until they're whizzing by your head.
Getting There
Follow the approach as for the West Face or the Pinnacle. From the parking area, 0.85 miles after the canyon entrance, walk across the road, heading west for a few feet. Locate a trail in the trees, on the south side of the road. Follow this through the woods and up a steep scree slope. You will be climbing up the same scree slope as you use for the descent of the Pinnacle or West Face. Look for the first side canyon on your right. Head up this canyon to its end. The climbs are located here. Allow 15 to 30 minutes from the car for this step approach.
[Hide Photo] Crude map reference for finding the Amphitheater.
[Hide Photo] The actual "Amphitheater" at the very back of the gully/alcove. The "Full Meal Deal" (5.10c) is in the corner just left of the feature. "Slick Willard" (5.9) and "Climbing By The Brooks" (5.8) ar…
[Hide Photo] On this cool tree wondering where the hell you are is where you end up if you follow the Pinnacle descent, start at the Pinnacle descent, but immediately cross the lowest part of the gully, keeping…
[Hide Photo] Looking up towards the entry to the Amphitheater alcove. The entry is somewhat obscured because there are lots of trees in the gully. You basically go straight ahead, as the main route hiking up…
[Hide Comment] Went climbing the first weekend in August 2002 at the Amphitheater. All the first bolts were missing on the _easily_ reached first bolts. The routes looked ok, but some of the second bolts look a bit high. Make life easy and take a hanger and nut.
[Hide Comment] Rock & Ice #95 has an article by Stewart Green and Ian Spencer-Green that covers all of this stuff, you can backorder it for a few bucks on their website I think.
May 28, 2003
[Hide Comment] I hate it when I have the ability to answer my own questions (had to go come and dig through a stack of periodicals to find my R&I). Since I haven't climbed the routes, and know nothing about them I'll take liberally from the authors (working L to R, after Climbing by the Brooks:
The Full Male Deal (5.10c) 2 pitchesCool Runnings (5.12d/13a)Project Cave Route (5.13)The Dance of Shiva (5.12c)Crickets in the Cabbage (5.10d)The Disclaimer (5.11b/c)
Quick note about R&I #95. When i bought my back-issue over a year ago, the person on the other end of the phone informed me I bought the 2nd to last copy. Which may mean that they have no more (or maybe they do). If you're needing a copy I may be able to offer full-colour scans (after I check out the appropriate copyright law to verify this is acceptable).
May 28, 2003
[Hide Comment] It is a violation of copyright law to scan and give away the intellectual material. However, since I created it, I can. If anyone wants a copy of the North Cheyenne Canyon guide, I will be happy to email it to them.
Sep 27, 2003
[Hide Comment] There seems to be some confusion about who developed this area.
I bolted the entire area; however, I didn't get the first ascent of Climbing by the Brooks. All ofther first ascents are mine. The two pitch climb was orginally named The Full Meal Deal, but Stew accidently called it the Full Meal Deal in his R and I guide.
The cave route needs a lot of cleaning, and maybe a bit of glue too. Looks better than it actually is.
Still plenty of rock to drill. Go for it.
Sep 29, 2004
[Hide Comment] The Rock and Ice guide to North Cheyenne Canon is available on my website: stewartgreen.com. Follow the links to a PDF file with topos and descriptions.
Nov 22, 2004
[Hide Comment] I live in Colo Spgs and have climbed the Pinnacle, Crack Parallel, and other routes in North Cheyenne Canyon -- but have been somewhat perplexed as to where "The Amphitheater" actually is, despite the approach instructions on Mtn Project. So, today, after climbing Crack Parallel, I set out to find the Amphitheater on the descent. It is NOT the first one encountered as you descend from the Pinnacle -- it is the next one down. And if you are approaching it going uphill from the road, while it technically lies on the right side of the scree filled descent gully -- it is really just straight ahead (because the descent gully veers left). The entry to the Amphitheater gully/alcove has so many trees that it's not entirely obvious there is much of an alcove there, even though it is very long (deep). Anyway, I've attached a crude map and a picture or two that hopefully will make finding the Amphitheater easier for others.
Apr 20, 2010
[Hide Comment] Does anyone have any beta on the gully that is to the left of the amphitheater as you're facing it? I believe Stewart's Climbing Colorado book calls this Raspberry Draw, but there are no routes listed? I have walked through there and have seen bolts but would love to know what's there exactly.
Dec 12, 2010
[Hide Comment] I found a piece of climbing gear at the base of the cave today. If it's yours and you can name it, color and all, it's yours. Cheers.
Jul 20, 2016
[Hide Comment] There is a fairly established trail leading up to The Amphitheater. Begin up the obvious, loose descent of Pinnacle/Crack Parallel, and it begins about 40 yards looker's right.
Nov 1, 2016
[Hide Comment] More location beta - begin up the Pinnacle descent, but climb up and right (as you head up) at first, keeping the lowest part of the gully to your left. If you follow the Pinnacle descent up, you will end up at "not this alcove".
Aug 14, 2020
[Hide Comment] The location where the amphitheater is on MP is not correct. The correct coordinates are: (38.7894424, -104.8770272). MP has it one gully too far west.
Aug 26, 2023
[Hide Comment] This is a fun area, but it could use a rebolting to upgrade the hardware to stainless steel. Most (if not all) of the bolts are carbon steel 3/8” and rusted a good bit. They will probably hold your fall for the time being. Also, the first bolt on Full Male Deal is missing its hanger and nut.
Aug 26, 2023
Access Issue: Road closure and reopened after flood damage!
Details
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Aug 16, 2002
The Full Male Deal (5.10c) 2 pitchesCool Runnings (5.12d/13a)Project Cave Route (5.13)The Dance of Shiva (5.12c)Crickets in the Cabbage (5.10d)The Disclaimer (5.11b/c)
Quick note about R&I #95. When i bought my back-issue over a year ago, the person on the other end of the phone informed me I bought the 2nd to last copy. Which may mean that they have no more (or maybe they do). If you're needing a copy I may be able to offer full-colour scans (after I check out the appropriate copyright law to verify this is acceptable). May 28, 2003
I bolted the entire area; however, I didn't get the first ascent of Climbing by the Brooks. All ofther first ascents are mine. The two pitch climb was orginally named The Full Meal Deal, but Stew accidently called it the Full Meal Deal in his R and I guide.
The cave route needs a lot of cleaning, and maybe a bit of glue too. Looks better than it actually is.
Still plenty of rock to drill. Go for it. Sep 29, 2004
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