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Routes in The Amphitheater

Climbing By The Brooks S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cool Runnings S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Crickets in the Cabbage S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dance of Shiva, The S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Disclaimer, The S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Full Male Deal, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slick Willard S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Ike Deal and Brett Pierce?
Page Views: 2,692 total, 15/month
Shared By: Ben Glover on Jul 12, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is the 3rd route on the left side of the amphitheatre just prior to the headwall (past Slick Willard and Climbing by the Brooks).

8-10 feet up the route should be a stud w/o a hanger & nut. The climbing is 5.easy here so either bring your own or run it out to the 2nd bolt. The easy slab climbing will steepen as you climb. The first pitch crux will be 1-2 bolts below the anchor. If you're like me you can look forward to blasting the crux and landing on a slabbed section of rock below.

Both pitches are listed at 95 feet (so a 50 meter might just make it). Credit the rating and length to the S.M.G. authored R&I mini guide.

Protection

A rack of draws should be fine.

Photos

Adam Block
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Adam Block   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10b
Both pitches are awesome and not to be missed. Very well-protected. Jun 24, 2017
Monica Jones
Bishop, CA
 
Monica Jones   Bishop, CA
 
Easily linked into one pitch with a few runners. Good pitch! May 30, 2014
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Way fun! Incorporates a mix of slab, runouts, and face climbing! Pretty solid 10+ when it steepens up. Great warm up for the 10d and 11c below. The crux is after the slab runout section where it steepen outs. Would have been a cool onsight if it didn't rain the night before and during the climb... that definitely made it a bit more challenging. A must do if you don't mind a bit of runout. Aug 25, 2013
GLD
  5.11b
GLD  
  5.11b
I attempted to lead the crux and backed out, I had previously seen two others just before me fail one taking a rough hit on the slab. We went to the right before the crux. Going to the left looks much easier (in fact one of the guys did this), but it also looked too far off route. I liked the idea listed below about unclipping all but the last two bolts and get a very active belay, but that wasn't really an option for me.

In terms of bolting, I think it could be better done. The fix is 1 of 2 things. (1) Move the bolt before the crux up higher (or add a slightly higher bolt).
(2) Resolve the do you move right and up to the bolt at the crux or left to the bolt at the crux and put the crux bolt closer to either side.

Eventually one of the other fellows climbed it and I TR'd it. I voted 11b, since the crux felt that way and it is sustained for about 8 ft after the crux giving you a very sustained 15-18ft of climbing. Jul 9, 2012
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
I don't think the bolt has been added... but it's not too bad. I wasn't sweating too hard. Pretty sustained once you get off the slabby section. Fun route. Also, I pulled a large flake off today after the third bolt of the second pitch. Stuff is still coming off this. May 17, 2009
Brandon Schirm
colorado springs, co
Brandon Schirm   colorado springs, co
This climb was well protected if you have an active belay. I unclipped all the bolts before the bulge and put a long sling on the bulge bolt. The climbing before the bulge is 5.7 at the most, but a long draw on the bulge bolt and a short one on the next bolt will keep you off the slab (with a good belay). Sep 9, 2008
Erik Tullberg
Colorado Springs
Erik Tullberg   Colorado Springs
Anybody put up that extra bolt? Any additional beta would be great. We hope to do this in the coming weeks. Aug 20, 2008
abc
 
abc  
 
I've been meaning to go back and add a bolt, so if you were to blow it at the crux you wouldn't deck on the slab below. If someone gets to it before me, you are more than welcome to add one and only one bolt where it is needed. Sep 18, 2007
kjdetlor
Colorado Springs, CO
kjdetlor   Colorado Springs, CO
First pitch is REALLY run out, it's easy climbing, but still a little bit nerving for sure. I totally would not want to fall during the crux moves either, cause I'm pretty sure that that fall wouldn't be very clean. Sep 18, 2007
abc
 
abc  
 
Originally called this the "Full Meal Deal" to honor Ike, but somehow the name was lost in translation when I gave Stew Green the details of it for his Rock and Ice article.

I like Stew's name for it better than the original. Apr 20, 2007