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Routes in Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab

Black Science S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chronic Bedwetter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hesitation S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Intensive Care T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnson Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ladder Route T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Reality Check S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robertson Wall S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Silver Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tunnel Vision T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Description

This excellent piece of granite is located in the upper part of North Cheyenne Canyon, above Helen Hunt Falls. It offers some of the best and most convenient slab climbing in the Pikes Peak region. The rock is very solid and compact. The routes offer mostly bolt protection, but as with slab routes, some of them are more sporty than sport. A rack of quick draws and a single rope should be all that is needed to enjoy the 13 or so routes located here. In winter, a moderate, 2 pitch ice climb forms below the slab. Most of the routes go to the summit of the slab. Tops ropes can be arranged on some routes after first leading them. See Garden of the Gods - Pikes Peak - Colorado by Bob D'Antonio 1996 for a reference.
Reopened after flood damage! Details

Getting There

Follow the directions for North Cheyenne Canyon. Drive US 24, go S on Cresta Rd, go W on N Cheyenne Canyon Rd. Helen Hunt Falls is located at the top of the canyon. Park at the visitor center, and hike up the signed trail to the top of the falls. Scramble through some bushes at the top of the overlook to the base of the cliff.

List of Routes

L->R (until the update):

A. Silver Left, 6, 130'.
B. Tunnel Vision, 7, 5 bolts & gear.
C. Ladder Route, 6, bolts.
D. Robertson Wall, 7 R, 4 bolts.
E. Chronic Bedwetter, 7, 6 bolts & gear.
F1. Hesistation Slab, 7 R, 3-4 bolts.
F2. Reality Check, 8, 9 bolts. Probably easiest to identify.
G. Dihedral Route, 7, gear.
H. Johnson Route, 10+, bolts, 2p.
I. Black Science, 10, 2p, bolts.
J. Unknown, bolts.
K. Intensive Care, 8, bolts, 200'.
L. Lake Liquor, bolts.
M. Old Boy's Club, bolts & pin.
N. Unknown, bolts.

10 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Nick Grue
Northglenn, CO
Nick Grue   Northglenn, CO
I have had a really hard time distinguishing which routes are to the left of Black Science. It almost looks like more routes have been added since the printing of "Rock Climbing Colorado" by Stewart Green. Any tips on which routes are which? Oct 28, 2008
Stewart,
Thanks for the info! I guess the description on this page does say that most of the routes go to the top. I just assumed there would be an anchor near the top, or enough bolts to not face a 30ft runout. I'm sure this is nothing compared to Yosemite climbing, or other slab granite areas, but there's nowhere at the top to supplement with trad gear, and I'm a pansy :D . Oct 9, 2007
The anchor for Reality Check is the tree at the top of the cliff. I took that hanger off that extra bolt this past July. Travis Nolan placed the anchor the year (1995) after I did the FA of the route. It is simply a convenience anchor and is not needed. I've been meaning to chop that extra bolt for awhile and patch the hole. Likewise this route has sprouted all kinds of extra unnecessary bolts, including the first 2. So climb the route to the top of the cliff and hike off south around the slab to get off. Oct 8, 2007
This area seems really nice for friction climbing experience on some good granite. I unfortunately discovered that one of the hangars is missing from the anchor on Reality Check and the next climb to the left. It seems that this is a common problem for this area (stolen hangars) which is unfortunate. Oct 6, 2007
Josh,
I am revising RCCO right now. Rather finishing it. When I get back to COS next week (stuck in Yakima right now waiting for a new truck engine), I will email you the revised descriptions and ratings. Climbed most of the routes two weeks ago...S Jun 24, 2007
Joshua Balke
Colorado Springs
Joshua Balke   Colorado Springs
Just checked out this area today and had trouble defining routes based on the "Rock Climbing Colorado" guide. Perhaps it was the runout and the relatively slick rock, but the 5.6 center route didn't feel nearly that easy. Even here on MP, there are two routes listed (Robertson's Wall and the Ladder Route) that are listed as the second route from the left 5.6R. However, the guide states the first route is 5.6 second 5.7R etc. Anyone have a topo that has the current routes and accurate grades? Jun 14, 2007
You can use a 50m rope if you belay from the ramp on routes near chronic bedwetter. There is a 2 bolt anchor half way up reality check and the route just left of reality called Hesitation 5.8. There is also a 2 bolt anchor on the top of the left side of the slab for tunnel vision 5.7. If you don't like the 50ft runout on easy rock at the top of all the routes then there is a piton just above the short vertical section you can clip or there are a few spots for medium to small stoppers. Beware of the flake near the top of tunnel vision. Just left of the route there is a 25ft disk of detached rock. Just beware of it and don't place pro behind it. Nov 29, 2003
Does anyone have a photoshopped image of Silver Cascade with the routes drawn in? Unfortunately my knowledge of the area is limited and I prefer visuals anyways. I basically just want to know what the heck I climbed yesterday. Thanks for your help.-BW Oct 20, 2003
Jason--(and others)--just in case you didn't know.I (and Myke sorta ;-) have a full-time job, still climb after work, run before work (on occasion), and try to have a life outside of hours of maintenance and work on the site.

I already linked some of the pics you submitted so they will appear tomorrow, but it's impractical for download times and useful beta (where are the routes?) to add all 8 (or however many there are) to one page. If you draw topos of routes, then I could link the pics to individual routes, but as is, they are just pictures of rock... May 14, 2003
bb
bb  
What is the route to the right of Johnson route? the one the crosses the overhang after it drops off? What is the pitch above Johnson route rated? I did it today, and it was very fun. May 4, 2003
I have yet to find a more polished piece of rock than the Cascade Slab. It seems to me as if a 5.8 here is a touch harder than 5.8 slabs elsewhere just due to the slickness of the rock. Unless you're just a seasoned slab monger, you may want to string up up one the more mellow lines (Tunnel Vision, etc) to start with just to get a feel for the rock. Dec 13, 2002
It is 180+ feet to the trees on the top of the routes around Chronic Bedwetter so a 60m rope is a must. Jun 12, 2002
There are lot of bolts on the slab, especially around Chronic Bedwetter. So many, in fact, that I have found accidentally crossing over to other routes is not uncommon, and about the only way to stay on route is to follow one type of bolt all the way up. I would recommend taking 4-5 24inch or 36inch runners on the routes to make longer quickdraws, because rope drag at the top (runout section) of almost every route here is huge without the extra play in the rope. Jan 15, 2002

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