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Routes in Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab

Black Science S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chronic Bedwetter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hesitation S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Intensive Care T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnson Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ladder Route T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Reality Check S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robertson Wall S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Silver Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tunnel Vision T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Sport
FA: [Stewart Green & Brett Spencer-Green in 1994]
Page Views: 998 total, 5/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Feb 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

Like all the slab routes at Silver Cascade, the crux section is well protected with a long runout to the top on easier ground. This will be the third bolted route from the left, adjacent to Robertson Wall. Sustained 5.7 through all the bolts, and then about a 50 ft runout to the top on easy ground (5.2 or so). Anchor at the top is best set using trees and very long sling, but an acceptable spot can be located for a #1 Camalot and a couple of medium stoppers.

Protection

4 bolts plus a very long sling for top anchor.

Photos

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Larry Shaw  
 
You can put pro in the horizontal crack near the top or slide left 5 or 10 ft and clip an old piton just above the vertical section. The runout's not bad. Nov 29, 2003
The first bolt on this route as well as Reality Check are high because people will chop them or steal the hangers if they can get to them. I had a bolt on that upper runout that was chopped in 1995. Also an anchor on the narrow ledge below both routes was also chopped in 1995. That's the reality...if someone, usually a non-climber, can get to a bolt, they will steal the hanger... May 5, 2003
ROC
Englewood, CO
ROC   Englewood, CO
Did this route a couple weeks back. I feel the same way about the run out especially getting to that 1st bolt. I used some pro in the crack under the little roof at the end that gave a little extra security. Not a bad climb though. Mar 5, 2003
So what is up with the runout? I mean it is a little hairy on the last couple moves when you are 50 feet above the last manky bolt, even if it is 5.2 to 5.6ish rock depending on the line you take. IMHO skidding 100+ feet down that slab would really suck. If someone has the means to put something in, I wouldn't complain. Jun 14, 2002