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Routes in Silver Cascade Slab aka Hesitation Slab

Black Science S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chronic Bedwetter S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Hesitation S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Intensive Care T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Johnson Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ladder Route T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Reality Check S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Robertson Wall S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Silver Left T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tunnel Vision T,S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Sport, TR, 130 ft
FA: Brent Kertzman & Kris Davenport, 1986
Page Views: 1,438 total, 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jun 1, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is the left-most, bolted line on the Silver Cascade Slab. Pleasant, low-angled, runout, stickier than Reality Check. It can even be TR'ed wet or in a rain.

Find this by parking at the Helen Hunt Falls, hike up the established trail (~0.5 mi) above the falls, past & above Silver Cascade, and before the bridge, head up & right through the trees to the slab. Find this line located separately from the other bolted lines on the far-left side of the crag where the terrain/dirt starts to become angled up & left.

Boulder up left of the first bolt on flakes with the crux move before the 1st bolt. Clip & head up. Clip 3-4 widely spaced bolts to an overlap/huge flake. Carefully pull up on the left edge of the huge flake & head to the top. There are 2 bolts at the top without rappel paraphenalia, 130 feet. Walkoff to the left.

Hopefully that huge flake is stable.

Protection

5 QDs, possibly a small cam or two.

Update: there may be some extra retrobolts.

Photos

Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
As of 9-24-2014, there are a couple of extra bolts on this route (newer painted hangers with buttonhead bolts), thanks to whoever installed them.
With the extra bolts, the rating would no longer be an 'R', but due to the slab style of climbing required, mentally it's still an 'R'.

After finishing this route, I felt accomplished, but it was a scary 5.7 to lead. I don't know what it is about granite slab climbs in Colorado, but they spook me every time. Sep 24, 2014
Brent Kertzman
Black Hills, SD
Brent Kertzman   Black Hills, SD
I believe this to be a route I did the FA on with Ms. Kris Davenport in 1986. We named it after the Talking Heads song "Life During Wartime". Soldiers were out on maneuvers nearby the day we put up this route. I want to say we rated this route 5.8 likewise. Apr 28, 2014
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Real fun lead. Not sure this one deserves an R rating since the rock has great friction (unlike the routes to the right) and the bolts are where you need them. Still better safe than sorry; this is a spicy lead. May 3, 2010
A definite slab climb. If you have never done granite slab climbing, the upper section, where there are no positive handholds or footholds, would be shocking and terrifying. Therefore, maybe try to TR it if you aren't sure. I would agree that the crux before the first bolt would absolutely be terrible to fall from so that might be another reason to TR it. That said it is a 5.7. Overall an OK climb but good for improving slab climbing skills. Sep 7, 2009
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
I still remember this climb as one of the harder 7s I have ever done. Tricky section before you even get to the first bolt got me thinking; and you are well off the ground above gnarly looking rocks and roots. After that, it's a well polished slab with thought provoking reaches and smears between bolts that seem too widely spaced to my RRCOS trained mind. Oct 30, 2008