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Routes in Practice Rock

Dark Magic C2+
Left Crack TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Elevation: 7,121 ft
GPS: 40.002, -105.413 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 14,382 total, 70/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

A Classic, which the many pin scars prove. Right off the road, and easy top rope access. To get to the summit, hike up the left side, and then up a chimney to the right, or scramble up the right side. The rock is solid, and is south facing enough that in the winter it keeps warm until late in the day.

L->R:

A. Dark Magic, C1, 1p, 60', gear.
B. Left Crack, 8+, 1p, 60', gear.
C. Thin Crack, 9+, 1p, 60', gear.
D. Regular Route, 11, 1p, 60', gear.
E. Lieback, 10-, 1p, 60', gear.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off, directly below Practice Rock. You can't miss it.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Practice Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
C2+
Dark Magic
Aid
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Crack
TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thin Crack
Trad, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lieback
Trad, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Regular Route
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dark Magic C2+ Aid
Left Crack 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Thin Crack 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Lieback 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, TR
Regular Route 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, TR
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Photos

MISSING RED GREEN AND YELLOW WALLET! I lost my wallet at the Practice Rock/ Bell Buttress/Bowling Ally parking turnout on Saturday 11/4. My name is Joshua Richardson, my Maine State ID is in there as well as my passport and other valuables. If found, please call or text me at 207-318-6093. Nov 6, 2017
WadeM
Golden, Co
WadeM   Golden, Co
#2 is a huge chimney. One of my cams dropped down into the middle, so I scrambled up from the bottom. Can't be harder than 5.5. Jan 31, 2012
The crag across the street is Bell Buttress. The slick corner is Cosmosis 5.10 (great climb). Sep 25, 2009
What is the rock directly across the street from Practice Rock with the start of routes being on top of this terrace about 100 feet up. There is a slick corner that is wicked fun to climb? Any help appreciated. Sep 2, 2005
Charles Danforth
L'ville, CO
Charles Danforth   L'ville, CO
To reiterate, does anyone have any beta on the climbs labeled #1 and #2 in the topo?

I TRed #1 yesterday and found the bottom to be easy enough (5.7?) but it got substantially harder about 10' below the anchors. Perhaps traversing right would have made it easier, but my rope was caught in a notch above and wouldn't budge. Interesting times... Anchor-wise, there's an old 1/4" bolt up there and lots of places to put gear. But be careful, some of those blocks are loose and most of them are detached. Long slings would let you sling a tree or some of the farther blocks.

#2 looks like a huge chimney with a couple of awkward chockstone problems. Could be interesting if you're into that sort of thing. Anchor will involve gear or runners from farther trees and blocks. Jul 15, 2005
D Bueno  
We went to take a look at Practice Rock today, but we went past it because it's hard to see as you're driving up the canyon. This might help you from doing the same, zero your Odometer at Bolder Falls and it's between 2 and 3 tenths of a mile further on your right. Mar 26, 2002
Just out of curiosity, does anyone know the name or rating of the route marked #1 on the photo? If you look carefully, you can see a thin crack(or even seam?) running straight up from the base to the top of #1. Also, I'm fairly new to Boulder Canyon, if a person finds an aid climb which is just impossible to free, can they hammer in copperheads to send it? Should they leave them fixed? I'm always a proponent of clean aid but sometimes a #1 RP just doesn't cut it. Jan 8, 2002

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