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Routes in Practice Rock

Dark Magic C2+
Left Crack TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, TR
FA: Mark Wilford and Ken Duncan, 1977.
Page Views: 2,970 total · 14/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Start out up the obvious crack running up and left, same as Left Crack. Where the crack branches, follow the right crack, moving up and into the top right corner of the roof. Find the best finger jam of your life, in the crack rising up out of the corner of the roof. Move out to the flake and up the crack.

Protection

Long slings. two 15 footers would be perfect. Standard rack for trad.

Photos

kevinnlong
Boulder, CO
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
As a variation, if one avoids the finger lock above and to the left of the mini-overhand and instead directly tackles the mini-overhand from below (reaching up and to the climber's right for a good flake), this route can be significantly harder (perhaps middle 10s). Anyway, I recommend the variation as it climbs quite differently (I felt like I was on a different route). Jun 24, 2008
Mohry
austin TX
Mohry   austin TX
This climb is a blast when you go for the onsight. Skip the toprope rehearsals and commit to it and you will love it, it will keep your attention for a 5.9. once you do it the move feels maybe 5.8 but really good. Nov 18, 2008

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