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Routes in Practice Rock

Dark Magic C2+
Left Crack TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lieback T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Regular Route T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Crack T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,927 total · 9/month
Shared By: Michael Komarnitsky on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

The same for the first 20 feet as Thin Crack. Start out up the obvious crack running up and left. Move up to the top left corner of the roof. The large bulge to your left as you start is off limits, for those keeping score. Move out over the roof, and follow the crack up and right up to the finish.

Protection

Long slings, and I mean long (2 fifteen footers would be perfect). For trad lead, cams below the roof, stoppers above.

Photos

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Vaughn
Colorado
 
Vaughn   Colorado
 
Warning! The roof is made up of three or four detached blocks which look ready to let loose. Even avoiding them by pulling on the left side requires pulling on a large block which is resting on a sloping ledge. If these blocks came off, they could potentially reach the road. This route should probably be avoided. You can go right at the roof to climb "thin crack" instead although that requires some tricky gear to protect the crux. Jun 8, 2016
Jim Fox
Westminster, CO
  5.9+
Jim Fox   Westminster, CO
  5.9+
Fun climb. I thought the lower part was the hardest. Probably easier if you use the left bulge, but that is "off limits". The roof was pretty easy and the crack above easier than the start. Still felt like 5.9 to me or maybe 5.9+. Probably easier for climbers with longer arms. Oct 5, 2014
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.8-
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
  5.8-
Though I don't believe in "+" ratings for 7s, Chan has it right; this route, really, is a breeze--especially for those with monkey arms (though my shorter partner crushed it anyway on lead). I call this down an "8," though, against the grain, I also upgraded the 10a on the right to 10b. Apr 1, 2010
Matt Chan
Boulder
  5.7+
Matt Chan   Boulder
  5.7+
Good gear makes this route a breeze. Down low, a couple of good wires and maybe a TCU in a pin scar. A number 3 camalot above and right of the overhang is bomber and a big stopper behind the expanding flake will sew it up well. Be careful not to set the stopper to deep behind the flake, you might not get it back. Feels no harder than some of the older routes in the 7+ range in BoCan (Owl, Cozyhang, Empor). Mar 29, 2005
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
  5.9-
Good route. Felt pretty easy for a 5.9 rating though. Roof protects well. Definitely a lot easier than the "5.9+ thin crack" route that exits the right part of the roof. Jun 27, 2004
Jeremy Monahan
Fort Fun, CO
Jeremy Monahan   Fort Fun, CO
This was my first trad climb. Pretty cool! There is an ancient cam stuck in the crack below the roof. Tried to yank it out, but it wouldn't budge. Oh well. May 18, 2002