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Billy Goat Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Billy Goat Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Billy Ray TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Bridwell Bolt Route S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Cummed On S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Permanent Erection S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Unknown aka Cock rock T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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Elevation:	2,947 ft	898 m
GPS:	37.22841, -122.10737 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	16,458 total · 61/month
Shared By:	Brian Quiter on Oct 12, 2003 · Updates
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.

Description

Billy Goat Rock is another sandstone rock with a mixture of toprope and sport climbs with bouldering on the lower portion of the rock. All the climbs are pretty close to vertical, but the bouldering gets pretty overhung.

The bolting on this 40 foot rock is pretty inconsistant. Some routes have nothing but 3/8" bolts, but a few rusty 1/4" bolts are still vital for some of the routes. So be aware of what you're getting into.

All topropes can be set up by hiking up and left around the rock, and most routes have 3 hangers up top.

Getting There

From the main castle rock parking lot, take the trail that leads to the campground. After ~.5 miles of downhill hiking the trail crosses a bridge then forks. The left fork continues to the waterfall and the campgrounds and the right fork leads to Goat rock and Billy Goat rock. Take a right and proceed up a fairly gentle hill for another ~.5 mile until you come around a corner and find a very odvious climbing rock about 10 feet off the trail. A wooden fence beside the trail also points at the rock. Its pretty hard to miss. The right-most bolted line is Cummed On (5.11c). Two more lines are on the same face.

5 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Billy Goat Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 8 ● Bridwell Bolt Route Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 16 ● Permanent Erection Sport, TR
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a 25 ● Cummed On Sport