Elevation: 3,023 ft
GPS: 37.23, -122.095 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 954,329 total · 4,341/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 19, 2002 with improvements by D Berlanga and 1 other
Admins: Aron Quiter, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Covid-19 Closures! Details
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Surrounding Castle Rock State Park is one of the larger climbing regions in the area, hosting a variety of sport, trad, bouldering and top rope problems.The rock is mostly sandstone, making it fairly easy on the hands and dynos quite slap happy.Access into the main park will cost you a couple of dollars, but that shouldn't deter you. If money is a concern, you can also park outside the main area and walk into the park.The bouldering at Castle Rock is some of the best in the state, and to preserve these boulders please don't climb on the rock when it is wet--wet sandstone breaks easily. If you're looking for a place to stay the night, there is a hike in campground 2.8 miles from the parking lot. It's a nice little spot that is rarely busy.Or if you want to car camp, try Sanborn County Park campground visit the Castle Rock State Park website for fairly current official information.

Getting There

From the north: Drive to the town of Saratoga, which is located a little southwest of San Jose. Find Saratoga by heading south on the 101 a little past the Dumbarton Bridge. Take the 85 south exit, which is also the Cupertino / Santa Cruz exit. Take 85 south for about 10 miles, and exit on Saratoga Ave. Go right onto Saratoga, and follow this road through town. Saratoga Ave becomes Hwy 9, or Big Basin Way. Go up the mountain, and hang a left on Skyline Boulevard (35), which will be the 1st major intersection out of town. The main park is about 2.5 miles up on the right side, and is prominently marked.

If you park outside of the parking lot, be aware that the free parking areas within the marked parking zones can fill up very quickly on weekends with good weather, Do not park in areas which are not within the marked parking zones or have the end of your vehicle extending into the street otherwise you will get a ticket, Lastly, be careful about getting your vehicle stuck in the ditch near the parking spots - it happens often.

469 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 75
Waimea Wall
Boulder
V1-2 5
 132
Mr Magoo
Boulder
V1-2 5
 126
The Spoon
Boulder
V4 6B
 58
Bates Arete
Boulder
V4 6B
 58
Tree Problem
Boulder
V4 6B
 85
Hueco Slap
Boulder
V6 7A
 53
Lost Keys Traverse
Boulder
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 122
Degeneration
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 114
Puckered Starfish
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 130
Mullah
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 118
The Great Roof
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 119
Viscious Circles
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 126
The Falls
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 85
Putrefaction
Sport, TR
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 67
Donkey Dong
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Waimea Wall Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Castle Rock Proper
 75
V1 5 Boulder
Mr Magoo Castle Rock Ar… > … > Magoos > Mr Magoo Boulder
 132
V1-2 5 Boulder
The Spoon Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Spoon
 126
V1-2 5 Boulder
Bates Arete Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Bates Arete Boulder
 58
V4 6B Boulder
Tree Problem Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Parking Lot Rock
 58
V4 6B Boulder
Hueco Slap Castle Rock Ar… > … > Magoos > Dog Dish Boulders
 85
V4 6B Boulder
Lost Keys Traverse Castle Rock Ar… > Indian Rock Side > Lost Keys Bouldering
 53
V6 7A Boulder
Degeneration Waterfall Cliff
 122
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Puckered Starfish Indian Rock
 114
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Mullah California Ridge
 130
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Great Roof Goat Rock
 118
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
Viscious Circles Indian Rock
 119
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
The Falls Waterfall Cliff
 126
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport
Putrefaction Waterfall Cliff
 85
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Donkey Dong Indian Rock
 67
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock Area »

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