Elevation: 3,023 ft
GPS: 37.23049, -122.09476
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,576,960 total · 6,281/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 19, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Surrounding Castle Rock State Park is one of the larger climbing regions in the area, hosting a variety of sport, trad, bouldering and top rope problems.The rock is mostly sandstone, making it fairly easy on the hands and dynos quite slap happy.Access into the main park will cost you a couple of dollars, but that shouldn't deter you. If money is a concern, you can also park outside the main area and walk into the park.The bouldering at Castle Rock is some of the best in the state, and to preserve these boulders please don't climb on the rock when it is wet--wet sandstone breaks easily. If you're looking for a place to stay the night, there is a hike in campground 2.8 miles from the parking lot. It's a nice little spot that is rarely busy.Or if you want to car camp, try Sanborn County Park campground visit the Castle Rock State Park website for fairly current official information.

Getting There

From the north: Drive to the town of Saratoga, which is located a little southwest of San Jose. Find Saratoga by heading south on the 101 a little past the Dumbarton Bridge. Take the 85 south exit, which is also the Cupertino / Santa Cruz exit. Take 85 south for about 10 miles, and exit on Saratoga Ave. Go right onto Saratoga, and follow this road through town. Saratoga Ave becomes Hwy 9, or Big Basin Way. Go up the mountain, and hang a left on Skyline Boulevard (35), which will be the 1st major intersection out of town. The main park is about 2.5 miles up on the right side, and is prominently marked.

If you park outside of the parking lot, be aware that the free parking areas within the marked parking zones can fill up very quickly on weekends with good weather, Do not park in areas which are not within the marked parking zones or have the end of your vehicle extending into the street otherwise you will get a ticket, Lastly, be careful about getting your vehicle stuck in the ditch near the parking spots - it happens often.

477 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 110
Waimea Wall
Boulder
V1 5
 98
The Warm Up
Boulder
V1-2 5
 168
The Spoon
Boulder
V3 6A
 106
The Beak Traverse
Boulder
V3-4 6A+
 92
Santa Cruz Dude
Boulder
V4 6B
 87
Bates Arete
Boulder
V4 6B
 133
Hueco Slap
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 90
Tree Problem
Boulder
V5-6 6C+
 93
Hueco Wall
Boulder
V6 7A
 82
Lost Keys Traverse
Boulder
V6 7A
 73
[Redacted]
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 174
Mullah
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 132
The Great Roof
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 152
The Falls
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 81
Donkey Dong
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Waimea Wall Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Castle Rock Proper
 110
V1 5 Boulder
The Warm Up Castle Rock Ar… > … > Magoos > Dog Dish Boulders
 98
V1 5 Boulder
The Spoon Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Spoon
 168
V1-2 5 Boulder
The Beak Traverse Castle Rock Ar… > … > Magoos > Beak
 106
V3 6A Boulder
Santa Cruz Dude Castle Rock Ar… > Indian Rock Side > Lower Indian Rock
 92
V3-4 6A+ Boulder
Bates Arete Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Bates Arete Boulder
 87
V4 6B Boulder
Hueco Slap Castle Rock Ar… > … > Magoos > Dog Dish Boulders
 133
V4 6B Boulder
Tree Problem Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Parking Lot Rock
 90
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Hueco Wall Castle Rock Ar… > … > Magoos > Dog Dish Boulders
 93
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Lost Keys Traverse Castle Rock Ar… > Indian Rock Side > Lost Keys Bouldering
 82
V6 7A Boulder
[Redacted] Castle Rock Ar… > Indian Rock Side > [Redacted]
 73
V6 7A Boulder
Mullah California Ridge
 174
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Great Roof Goat Rock
 132
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
The Falls Waterfall Cliff
 152
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport
Donkey Dong Indian Rock
 81
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock Area »

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