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Areas in Castle Rock Area

* Castle Rock Area Bouldering 0 / 2 / 2 / 171 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 173
Billy Goat Rock 1 / 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
California Ridge 3 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Castle Rock Proper 4 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Chew Tooth 2 / 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Devil's Canyon 0 / 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Eagle Peak Area 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Globule, The 0 / 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Goat Rock 2 / 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Gods, The 0 / 4 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Handley Rock Park 0 / 2 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Hostess, The 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Indian Rock 2 / 11 / 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Last Temptation Cliff 3 / 6 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Lower Guadalupe Rock 1 / 2 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Lyme Disease Rock 0 / 6 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Mount Doom 1 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Muffins, The 0 / 4 / 5 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Platypus 0 / 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Shady Rock 2 / 7 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Skyline Slabs 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Stevens Canyon Boulder 0 / 4 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Summit Rock 6 / 14 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Underworld Rock 2 / 9 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Voyeur 1 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Waterfall Cliff 6 / 7 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 13

Description

Surrounding Castle Rock State Park is one of the larger climbing regions in the area, hosting a variety of sport, trad, bouldering and top rope problems.

The rock is mostly sandstone, making it fairly easy on the hands and dynos quite slap happy.

Access into the main park will cost you a couple of dollars, but that shouldn't deter you. If money is a concern, you can also park outside the main area and walk into the park.

The bouldering at Castle Rock is some of the best in the state.

If you're looking for a place to stay the night, there is a hike in campground 2.8 miles from the parking lot. It's a nice little spot that is rarely busy.

Or if you want to car camp, try Sanborn County Park campground.

Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website for fairly current official information.
Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Getting There

From the north: Drive to the town of Saratoga, which is located a little southwest of San Jose. Find Saratoga by heading south on the 101 a little past the Dumbarton Bridge. Take the 85 south exit, which is also the Cupertino / Santa Cruz exit. Take 85 south for about 10 miles, and exit on Saratoga Ave. Go right onto Saratoga, and follow this road through town. Saratoga Ave becomes Hwy 9, or Big Basin Way. Go up the mountain, and hang a left on Skyline Boulevard (35), which will be the 1st major intersection out of town. The main park is about 2.5 miles up on the right side, and is prominently marked.

If you park outside of the parking lot, be aware that the free parking areas within the marked parking zones can fill up very quickly on weekends with good weather, Do not park in areas which are not within the marked parking zones or have the end of your vehicle extending into the street otherwise you will get a ticket, Lastly, be careful about getting your vehicle stuck in the ditch near the parking spots - it happens often.

333 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
Waimea Wall
Boulder
V1+ 5
The Spoon
Boulder
V1-2 5
Mr Magoo
Boulder
V4 6B
Bates Arete
Boulder
V4 6B
Tree Problem
Boulder
V4 6B
Hueco Slap
Boulder
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Degeneration
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Puckered Starfish
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mullah
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blowing Bubbles
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Great Roof
TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
The Falls
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Viscious Circles
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Putrefaction
Sport, TR
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Donkey Dong
Sport, TR
Waimea Wall * Castle Rock Are… > Castle Rock Loop > Castle Rock Proper V1 5 Boulder
The Spoon * Castle Rock Are… > Castle Rock Loop > Spoon V1+ 5 Boulder
Mr Magoo * Castle Rock Are… > … > Magoos > Mr Magoo Boulder V1-2 5 Boulder
Bates Arete * Castle Rock Are… > Castle Rock Loop > Bates Arete Boulder V4 6B Boulder
Tree Problem * Castle Rock Are… > Castle Rock Loop > Parking Lot Rock V4 6B Boulder
Hueco Slap * Castle Rock Are… > … > Magoos > Dog Dish Boulders V4 6B Boulder
Degeneration Waterfall Cliff 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Puckered Starfish Indian Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Mullah California Ridge 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Blowing Bubbles Indian Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
The Great Roof Goat Rock 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
The Falls Waterfall Cliff 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport
Viscious Circles Indian Rock 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Putrefaction Waterfall Cliff 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Donkey Dong Indian Rock 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock Area »

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
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Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
I haven't been up this week, but given that the rock is fragile sandstone, and that we just got a ton of rain, Castle is probably a place to avoid this weekend. Nov 17, 2017
Has anyone been up this week? Is the ground super soggy or is bouldering going to be do-able this weekend? Nov 16, 2017
Neil Gonzalez
Barcelona
Neil Gonzalez   Barcelona
Anyone going to here in the next week? I'm currently in Santa Clara with no transportation and would love to get some bouldering done while I'm sat waiting for my flight back to Europe. I've been 16 months on the road and this last leg of the trip I'm without my own transportation. Aug 21, 2016
Alia Kabir
Oakland, CA
Alia Kabir   Oakland, CA
Any camping nearby that doesn't require hiking? Doesn't need to have water or anything, just somewhere I could set up a tent? Jul 11, 2016
Like Stoney Point in So Cal but with more trees/shade and without the broken glass, graffiti, and chopped bolts.

Parking was a little crazy (crowded) but climbing was fun and uncrowded. Aug 11, 2014
If you park outside of the parking lot, be aware that the free parking areas within the marked parking zones can fill up very quickly on weekends with good weather, Do not park in areas which are not within the marked parking zones or have the end of your vehicle extending into the street otherwise you will get a ticket, Lastly, be careful about getting your vehicle stuck in the ditch near the parking spots - it happens often. Jan 14, 2014
Brian Snider
NorCal
Brian Snider   NorCal
Your best camping option is in the park. There is a hike in campground 2.8 miles from the parking lot. It's a nice little spot that is rarely busy. Memorial Day weekend and we were only one of three groups in the whole camp ground. Feb 16, 2011
Castle is a great place to climb. Expecially for those who need a break from Yosemite. I have never been to Fountaineblaeu, but I've been told Castle mirrors it. Maybe its not so grandiose, but maybe a great place to train? Feb 10, 2011
nono  
Any good camping nearby? Feb 4, 2011
munge  
Tick Marks are not an accepted practice at CRSP without sufficient water or wiping off to remove their presence before moving to a new problem. Jan 17, 2010
Tortilla
Fakeville, USA
Tortilla   Fakeville, USA
I'm not sure if the boulder dudes are serious or not. Creeping on their photos for a while only produced pictures of climbing in far away areas (Indian Creek is 7? hours from boulder) and the greasy traverse in boulder notorious for getting smeared with poo poo from time to time. If that's what you're referring to as 'way, way better'...

On the positive side... I stumbled upon this park with my friend about 6 or 7 years ago and it seemed quite nice. It was very peaceful. Nov 23, 2009
drunkenmaster
santa rosa, cali
drunkenmaster   santa rosa, cali
the bay area rocks! all you haters - stay in boulder with all the other snobby lizard people.

Castle has some great problems! Nov 13, 2009
Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
Hah, I learned to climb at Castle and also moved to Boulder. And yeah, it's way, way better here. May 5, 2009
K Ice
Saint Paul, MN
K Ice   Saint Paul, MN
This area has really cool rock formations. The park service has put together a very nice pamphlet on how it's formed that you can buy for just $2. Check it out! Apr 17, 2008
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
Yosemite? Jan 5, 2008
TBlom  
After learning to climb around here, I moved to Colorado... I would definitely recommend leaving the Bay Area if you want to be a climber. Dec 24, 2007
Blitzo  
The rock here, although short, is pretty cool. The forest is beautiful! The bugs get annoying and the yellowjackets are vicious! Sep 12, 2006

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