Elevation: 3,023 ft
GPS: 37.23, -122.095 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,232,836 total · 5,331/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 19, 2002 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen
Access Issue: Covid-19 Closures! Details
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Surrounding Castle Rock State Park is one of the larger climbing regions in the area, hosting a variety of sport, trad, bouldering and top rope problems.The rock is mostly sandstone, making it fairly easy on the hands and dynos quite slap happy.Access into the main park will cost you a couple of dollars, but that shouldn't deter you. If money is a concern, you can also park outside the main area and walk into the park.The bouldering at Castle Rock is some of the best in the state, and to preserve these boulders please don't climb on the rock when it is wet--wet sandstone breaks easily. If you're looking for a place to stay the night, there is a hike in campground 2.8 miles from the parking lot. It's a nice little spot that is rarely busy.Or if you want to car camp, try Sanborn County Park campground visit the Castle Rock State Park website for fairly current official information.

Getting There

From the north: Drive to the town of Saratoga, which is located a little southwest of San Jose. Find Saratoga by heading south on the 101 a little past the Dumbarton Bridge. Take the 85 south exit, which is also the Cupertino / Santa Cruz exit. Take 85 south for about 10 miles, and exit on Saratoga Ave. Go right onto Saratoga, and follow this road through town. Saratoga Ave becomes Hwy 9, or Big Basin Way. Go up the mountain, and hang a left on Skyline Boulevard (35), which will be the 1st major intersection out of town. The main park is about 2.5 miles up on the right side, and is prominently marked.

If you park outside of the parking lot, be aware that the free parking areas within the marked parking zones can fill up very quickly on weekends with good weather, Do not park in areas which are not within the marked parking zones or have the end of your vehicle extending into the street otherwise you will get a ticket, Lastly, be careful about getting your vehicle stuck in the ditch near the parking spots - it happens often.

459 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Castle Rock Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
 85
Waimea Wall
Boulder
V1-2 5
 149
Mr Magoo
Boulder
V1-2 5
 141
The Spoon
Boulder
V3 6A
 87
The Beak Traverse
Boulder
V3 6A
 78
The Swim
Boulder
V4 6B
 66
Bates Arete
Boulder
V4 6B
 113
Hueco Slap
Boulder
V4+ 6B+
 73
Tree Problem
Boulder
V5-6 6C+
 80
Hueco Wall
Boulder
V6 7A
 68
Lost Keys Traverse
Boulder
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 134
Degeneration
Trad, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 148
Mullah
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 125
The Great Roof
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 135
The Falls
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 70
Donkey Dong
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Waimea Wall Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Castle Rock Proper
 85
V1 5 Boulder
Mr Magoo Castle Rock Ar… > … > Magoos > Mr Magoo Boulder
 149
V1-2 5 Boulder
The Spoon Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Spoon
 141
V1-2 5 Boulder
The Beak Traverse Castle Rock Ar… > … > Magoos > Beak
 87
V3 6A Boulder
The Swim Castle Rock Ar… > … > Magoos > Mrs Magoo Boulder
 78
V3 6A Boulder
Bates Arete Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Bates Arete Boulder
 66
V4 6B Boulder
Hueco Slap Castle Rock Ar… > … > Magoos > Dog Dish Boulders
 113
V4 6B Boulder
Tree Problem Castle Rock Ar… > Castle Rock Loop > Parking Lot Rock
 73
V4+ 6B+ Boulder
Hueco Wall Castle Rock Ar… > … > Magoos > Dog Dish Boulders
 80
V5-6 6C+ Boulder
Lost Keys Traverse Castle Rock Ar… > Indian Rock Side > Lost Keys Bouldering
 68
V6 7A Boulder
Degeneration Waterfall Cliff
 134
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad, TR
Mullah California Ridge
 148
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
The Great Roof Goat Rock
 125
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
The Falls Waterfall Cliff
 135
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Sport
Donkey Dong Indian Rock
 70
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Castle Rock Area »

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