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Routes in Billy Goat Rock

Bridwell Bolt Route S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cummed On S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Permanent Erection S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown aka Cock rock T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,030 total · 6/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 12, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This is the middle bolted route on Billy Goat Rock.

Climb up via easy but pumpy climbing to a bulge with garbage hands and non-existant feet above the second bolt. Continue on via pumpy pockets above to the top anchor, which is over the lip.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, shared with the Bridwell Bolt Route. Climb up the backside of Billy Goat Rock and a ways back down to reach the top anchors. Bring a couple 6 foot slings to keep your anchor off the lip of the rock.

Photos

Yep, bolts still gone. This is NOT a sport route anymore. Dec 3, 2017
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
First two bolts on the Permanent Erection have been removed by person or persons unknown (c. March 2006). Why? They were 3/8". Jul 9, 2006
I fel the crux move is a bit harder than 5.11a. There may be a possibility that the crucial hold broke, making it a little harder?? (Persoannly, I felt the 5.11B/C route to the right of Permanet Erection is easier or at an eaual difficulty level.) Anyway, this is a very good climb. Jan 5, 2004