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Routes in Billy Goat Rock

Bridwell Bolt Route S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cummed On S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Permanent Erection S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown aka Cock rock T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Bridwell?
Page Views: 774 total, 4/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 12, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This is the leftmost bolted route on Billy Goat Rock.

Climb up using large holds for 2 bolts until a balancy section where a foot fell off, making this once 5.10c considerably harder than it's immediate neighbor Permanent Erection (5.11a). Once past this section large Castle Rocky pockets await as the route meets up with Permanent Erection.

The crux sits above an old rusty bolt (and only the second one up), so toproping is probably advisable.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, which is over the lip of the rock. To set up a toprope, bring a couple 6 foot slings, and walk up to the top of the rock and up over the top, and back down to the route. Be careful downclimbing.

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Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
All bolts except TR anchors seem to have been removed before March 2006. Jul 9, 2006