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Routes in Squarenail

Are You Small? S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Suede Shoes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dazed and Confused S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis Has Left the Building S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graceland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Space T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Book T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lost in Space S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lounge Lizard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Haze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reefer Madness S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul Kitchen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Outta Memphis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teenage Wasteland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up in Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 3,209 ft
GPS: 37.038, -119.407 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: ClimbandMine on Feb 15, 2003
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

Squarenail is predominately a sport crag with easy acess a short distance from Tollhouse rock, and closer to Fresno. It holds both moderate slab and steep face climbs, as well as a few cracks. Routes range from 5.5 to 5.12.

Getting There

From Prather, continue up 168, turning left at the stop sign up the "4 lane." From the stop sign, clock 5.2 miles. park at a pullout on a sweeping left-hand curve with a road-cut. You have to hop the curb just after the guardrail ends. A trail starts just before the roadcut rises up -- its a little hidden behind some brush. the trail takes you to the top of the cliff. Follow a gully down to access the main wall and harder (5.10 and up) routes. Continue along the top of the rock to a path leading down left to a scree gully and back to the slab routes.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Squarenail

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Great area, beautiful views looking out toward the central valley (if you can see through the haze from the smoke/fires). Would like to point out that there are multiple trails that lead out of the parking area. Look for the one along the road, which was marked by an orange ribbon when we were there yesterday. We instead took a trail out of the backside of the parking area and then had to bushwhack 200 yards to reach the top of the crag. Crag is south facing with very little shade available, at least in the slab area where we were climbing. Beautiful area, but don't make the same mistake we did and go there when it is 100 degrees out. Brutal! Jul 24, 2017
Aaron Slaven
Fresno, CA
Aaron Slaven   Fresno, CA
Chris, it's just been referred to as the "Aid Boulder" in the guide books.
Jetstream (.10c) - left trending w/ 4 bolts.
True Grit (.10b) - right trending offwidth crack. Mar 28, 2013
Chris Blanchard
Anacortes, WA
Chris Blanchard   Anacortes, WA
Does anyone know what the bolted route is on the block above playground ledge? It is sewn up pretty good and I was super interested in getting on it .... but I couldn't find a starting hand hold .. or foot hold .. or any hold?? Nov 24, 2012
the 4 lane is on fire Aug 11, 2012
Chad N
Three Rivers, CA
Chad N   Three Rivers, CA
led Mr Wizard recently and its a pretty good route. mid life crisis looks good too. Apr 20, 2012
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
This (Squarenail) should be set as a seperate area in the Sierra Foothills region. Jan 26, 2009

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