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Routes in Main Wall

Are You Small? S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Suede Shoes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dazed and Confused S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis Has Left the Building S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graceland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Left Book T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lost in Space S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lounge Lizard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Haze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reefer Madness S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul Kitchen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Outta Memphis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teenage Wasteland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up in Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mark Spencer 01/1994
Page Views: 446 total · 6/month
Shared By: Aaron Slaven on May 4, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Moderate slab. Lower slab a little grainy.

Location

1st bolt line to the right of "Left book"

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Tim Moore
  5.8- PG13
Tim Moore  
  5.8- PG13
Route slightly follows the obvious crack/large flake/section jutting out. Tough to reach some of the bolts if you follow that line but it's still fun. Jul 20, 2014
iamhamm
  5.8
iamhamm  
  5.8
Wife and I lead this today (see the photo we added). Fun route. It was a little grainy down low, but the climb was well protected where needed. Also, not clear that Tim was on the same route. I think if you're in the book you're actually climbing Left Book and then reaching over the clip. Per the guidebook, this line is on the actual slab. May 8, 2016
Led this route to open the day, and it is pure fun friction slab. Obvious crux is the slightly steeper section near bolt 4. A simple high step and some faith in the friction took care of that straight away. We had a bit of an adventure finding the anchors. I ran it out for 40ft on the low angle slab up top hunting for anchors but could find none that we could TR off of with our 60m. Ended up threading a set of anchors about 120ft off the deck and a bit left of the route, lowered down to the bolt line and traversed over to the anchors on top of Are You Small. Set up a quad there and left the 5th bolt of this route clipped as a directional. Worked out mighty fine for TRing with plenty of rope left over. Jul 24, 2017

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