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Routes in Squarenail

Are You Small? S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Suede Shoes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dazed and Confused S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis Has Left the Building S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graceland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Space T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Book T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lost in Space S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lounge Lizard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Haze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reefer Madness S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul Kitchen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Outta Memphis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teenage Wasteland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up in Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 356 total, 5/month
Shared By: Aaron Slaven on Aug 11, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climbs the most difficult holds through the headwall. Can top rope at the lower chain anchor or continue to the one at 85 ft shared with Blue Suede Shoes & Soul Kitchen.

Location

Elvis Wall is the orange and brown textured face below the Aid Boulder. Lounge Lizard is the 8th bolt line from the far left of the Elvis slab, or directly left of Soul Kitchen.

Protection

4 bolts. First bolt ~ 20ft up on mid angle slab.
Both the lower and 85' bolt anchors are OLD but still are usable.

Photos

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C Brooks
Fresno, CA
  5.10a
C Brooks   Fresno, CA
  5.10a
Fun with well protected crux. Very soft for the grade, I thought it was 10a at most May 16, 2015
Tim Moore
  5.10d PG13
Tim Moore  
  5.10d PG13
If this is the right route the first bolt is a little high without a stick climp and the only reason for the PG13 rating. After that it is bolted very well the entire way. I'd recommend climbing past the first rusty set of anchors because they look super sketchy and the climbing after that is fun and like a 5.8. The bulgy section is super rough even having had led several 5.11s before. Maybe something broke or my cousin and I just couldn't find out how to do it but it was an extremely difficult move that we kinda had to cheat through. Best of luck though. It's by far the hardest route on the wall because of that one move. Jul 20, 2014