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Routes in Squarenail

Are You Small? S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blue Suede Shoes S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dazed and Confused S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Rider S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elvis Has Left the Building S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Graceland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Inner Space T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Left Book T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lost in Space S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lounge Lizard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Wizard T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Purple Haze S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reefer Madness S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Soul Kitchen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Outta Memphis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Teenage Wasteland S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Up in Smoke S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, TR, 100 ft
FA: Terry Wright, Dwight Knoll, 08/1988
Page Views: 1,070 total, 16/month
Shared By: Aaron Slaven on May 4, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

"The arĂȘte" at Squarenail. This is a super fun line with lots of exposure over the corner down to Mr. Wizard.

Location

Scramble down the broken ledge to the right of "Left Book". There is a belay spot wide enough for the belayer.

Protection

5 bolts to 2 bolt anchors. Can access anchors for toprope from Left Book. Best for the belayer to sling a boulder to anchor in if the climber slips off prior to 1st bolt.

Photos

Beautiful, straightforward friction slab with a great right hand the entire way up. We did this route on TR after leading up Easy Rider. This route can be somewhat grueling when the crag has been baking in the sun all day, so this (as well as all the slab routes here) is one I'd recommend doing early in the day! We had a 60M rope, so we belayed from the ledge left of the arete (about 20ft right of the bottom of Left Book/Easy Rider) and we had maybe 5ft of rope left over. Jul 24, 2017
Brianna Chrisman 1
Mountain View
  5.8
Brianna Chrisman 1   Mountain View
  5.8
Very cool and technical slab route! Felt my calves burning on this one (but I suck at slab....) The fall before the first bolt would not be great (because you risk your belayer and you falling off the pile of rocks that you're belaying from) but the moves are not too bad. You can TR this from the anchor of left book (what we did). May 17, 2017
The original route had three bolts placed by Terry on lead. It was a fun evening on a beautiful line, but on repeating the route later I felt it needed a couple more...cuz I was scared! Terry was nice enough to let me add a couple cuz he's a nice guy.
One of my favorites...d. Jul 12, 2014
vincent L.
Redwood City
vincent L.   Redwood City
A little run out to 1st bolt . Bolts when you need them , but not exactly a tightly bolted route . Excellent quality and feature . Nov 18, 2013