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Goat Rock Climbing
Routes in Goat Rock
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Backside Bouldering V0 4 |
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Bowling Bawl V1 5 |
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Center Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corner Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X |
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Dragon's Breath TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Goat Rock Traverse V4 6B |
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Great Roof, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swiss Cheese T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Triple Overhang TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yodel King, The TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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| Elevation: | 2,880 ft | 878 m |
| GPS: |
37.2282, -122.1079 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 61,441 total · 225/month | |
| Shared By: | Melissa Moore on Jun 20, 2002 · Updates | |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
Goat Rock is tucked a fair way back from the main Castle Park area, but it's worth the beautiful hike in.
It's a pretty sweet mix of slabs and overhung, cave-like climbs, with lots of pockets all around.
The rock itself is 110 feet high, but the routes run no longer than 80 feet.
From the top you get an even more breathtaking view of the valley.
The only bolts are on the "Left Side of Great Roof" (and they're a little sketchy to walk out to). There are a number of bolts on the top for the "easy" routes but no hangars. You can run a long sling around the large horn on the top for the right hand side routes.
The climbs range from 5.4 to 5.12a, with something for everyone.
This rock is great if you have people with varying skill levels in your group.
The top rope bolts are easily accessed, but you should definitely bring long slings to set up your top rope if you want your rope to last on this sandstone.
If you're planning on staying 'til sundown don't forget to bring a headlamp or flashlight... otherwise the hike out gets very tricky.
Classics on Goat Rock include Great Roof (5.10b) and the Left Side (5.12a) for more advanced climbers, and Swiss Cheese (5.4-5.7) for less experienced climbers.
It's a pretty sweet mix of slabs and overhung, cave-like climbs, with lots of pockets all around.
The rock itself is 110 feet high, but the routes run no longer than 80 feet.
From the top you get an even more breathtaking view of the valley.
The only bolts are on the "Left Side of Great Roof" (and they're a little sketchy to walk out to). There are a number of bolts on the top for the "easy" routes but no hangars. You can run a long sling around the large horn on the top for the right hand side routes.
The climbs range from 5.4 to 5.12a, with something for everyone.
This rock is great if you have people with varying skill levels in your group.
The top rope bolts are easily accessed, but you should definitely bring long slings to set up your top rope if you want your rope to last on this sandstone.
If you're planning on staying 'til sundown don't forget to bring a headlamp or flashlight... otherwise the hike out gets very tricky.
Classics on Goat Rock include Great Roof (5.10b) and the Left Side (5.12a) for more advanced climbers, and Swiss Cheese (5.4-5.7) for less experienced climbers.
Getting There
From the main Castle Rock parking lot, take the Saratoga Gap Trail west toward Castle Rock Falls. You will cross Kings Creek, then at the fork in the trail, turn right onto Ridge Trail (there is a sign labeled goat rock). If you reach the observation platform for Castle Rock Falls you have gone past the fork. Passing by Last Temptation Cliff and Billy Goat rock on your right, you will come to Goat Rock on the left side. It's about a 1.3 to 1.5 mile hike in, with a decent amount of uphill walking, on a fairly small but well-traveled trail.
It is also possible to access Goat rock from the backpack camp via the ridge trail.
It is also possible to access Goat rock from the backpack camp via the ridge trail.
Classic Climbing Routes at Goat Rock
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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