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Routes in Goat Rock
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Backside Bouldering V0 4 |
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Bowling Bawl V1 5 |
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Center Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corner Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X |
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Dragon's Breath TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Goat Rock Traverse V4 6B |
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Great Roof, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Swiss Cheese T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Triple Overhang TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Yodel King, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 8,161 total · 32/month |
| Shared By: | Morgan Brown on May 4, 2002 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
A fairly indistinct route, which partially explains the range of ratings from 5.4-5.7. The entire lower 30 feet of the route is deeply incut, vertical to slightly-overhanging sandstone. The route then reaches a "third class ledge" (ref: Morris's guidebook). Leaders will go left, up the "fourth class gully", tying off handles as in the lower section. On toprope, the recommended, and more challenging line, ascends an obvious arete to the right, directly to the enormous knob which serves as the anchor for the route. This variation is unprotected, though a single bolt would suffice to make it a dandy leader route.
Protection
If leading, you can ascend the lower section, and up the 4th class face to the left totally with natural pro, by tying off to the buckethandle holds. One of the things that makes this a really fun route.
An enormous knob, accessible from the backside of the rock, is the usual anchor for this route. A 40-50' piece of webbing is required to sling the knob and run over the lip of the rock.
An enormous knob, accessible from the backside of the rock, is the usual anchor for this route. A 40-50' piece of webbing is required to sling the knob and run over the lip of the rock.
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