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Routes in Goat Rock

Center Route TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corner Route T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c X
Goat Rock Traverse V4 6B
Great Roof, The TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Swiss Cheese T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Triple Overhang TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,852 total, 9/month
Shared By: Melissa Moore on Oct 5, 2001
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

The Center Route starts just to the right of the tree under the roof, where the pitch of the slab becomes a bit steeper. There are tons of good pockets on this climb, making it pretty uncomplicated. Be smooth and careful when lowering your partner down, as the rock isn't completely vertical in all spots - there are some protrusions that hurt a LOT to smack into if your belayer abruptly stops (unfortunately known from personal experience). This is a fun climb for a warm up or new climbers.

Protection

To set up the toprope for this route some very long webbing (~30') is in order. I put some webbing around the base of the tree at the top of the rock, and used quickdraws to hang it over the top of the climb to minimize drag. There is one bolt at the top of the climb, but it's about 6' back so you'll probably want a sling so you can equalize with the webbing.

Photos

Bay Area Rock book shows anchors - these have been chopped. I rather wonder if they've been there anytime in the last few years... Jun 9, 2013
Brad Allender
Alameda, CA
  5.8
Brad Allender   Alameda, CA
  5.8
Fun route, but if Triple Overhang is 5.9, this seems more like 5.8 than 5.9. Sep 18, 2005
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.8
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.8
Center Route is a fun route although nothing very difficult. This can be fairly safely led using many slings as tie-offs. Once over the upper small ceiling, I hiked left to the 3 bolts/rappel rings over the large overhang. A fun rap down from there! Sep 18, 2005