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Dark Shadows Rock Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Dark Shadows Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Anti-Gravity Acrobatics T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
	Dark Shadows TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Forgotten Galaxy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
	Forgotten Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Nail 'n Gravel T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R

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Elevation:	3,180 ft	969 m
GPS:	34.09303, -116.15481 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,587 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Tony B on Jan 17, 2005
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is a small south facing rock with a low-angled backside. As such, there are relatively few routes on it, but those I sampled are fun. The south face is a pleasant winter climbing spot, and is very close to the road (see the picture on page 533 of Vogel's "old" guidebook).

Maybe one of the reasons I didn't see other parties on it was that it is just off of the road, and squeezed up against the back of a nice campsite. Shoot, it's great to rack your gear off of the picnic table and sit on the bench to change shoes before casting off to climb...but if someone is camping there it would be a pretty major intrusion. Suffice it to say, climb this one when nobody is around.The rock is mostly solid and the pitches more or less average length for Indian Cove. Although there are no "must do's" there a solid climber can have a good time there for a while. Even the 5.9+ s-rated climb given no stars was quite good, deserving of stars and NOT deserving of the s-rating.

Getting There

Approach as for Feudal Wall or Billboard Buttress - Willit Pillar and Dark Shadows are the two walls in between their south faces. Willit is further west while Dark Shadows is just to the east. It is literally only 15 meters from the road and across from an outhouse on the opposite side. The routes face the road.