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Cool Dome Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Cool Dome

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bank Note Blues T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bedtime For Democracy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Rickets And Scurvy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Stardust Memories T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

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Elevation:	4,250 ft	1,295 m
GPS:	34.05385, -116.1762 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,715 total · 20/month
Shared By:	David Evans on Apr 21, 2003
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Cool Dome is a good destination for a hot day or a cool one. The south and west side is in the sun all day and has several good routes. On the left side of the face are 3 very good 5.9 routes. All have 5 bolts and are a tiny bit loose. Good climbing and position. Bedtime for Democracy (5.10b**) is on the right and is very good. The east side is in the shade all day and has a very good 5.9 bolted route (Stardust Memories**) on good varnish (for the most part). The two 5.10a cracks are to the right and are worth climbing. Too Cool has no mega-classics but Too Secret to Find is just up the gully. Names and FA info to appear in the new guide.

Getting There

Start the approach as for Hidden Dome. The trail starts northeast and goes for approx. one mile before curving north when it reaches the base of the Too Secret Too Find area. If you are going to Too Cool Dome turn right and go up the gully which leads to the Too Secret Area. Go about halfway up and the Cool Dome is in the same gully and on the left.