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Bank Note Blues
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Alan Roberts & Todd Gordon, December 1985 |
Page Views: | 814 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Dustysdawg on Jan 1, 2005 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Description
This was a fun climb. It is a great climb to practice OW technique. I felt it was pretty sustained throughout the offwidth part, so IMO it deserves at least a star. It eases way up at the top in a fun crack. It is a little dirty at the bottom, but gets much better after a few moves.
Protection
This route was a good 5.9 offwidth. The pro is good but you have to be be creative. Bring a standard rack of Cams with no nuts. It would have helped me if I had brought doubles of camalot .75-2. Bolt anchors on top, but you can also use a camalot 3.5 and 4 if bolts are occupied by someone doing "Bedtime for Democracy". Rap off back side.
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