The lower Tieton crags (Royal Columns and the Bend) are closed for raptor nesting beginning February 1 each year. Depending on nest location and success, the closure can be lifted as early as April or as late as July.
Andy warming up on "Artificially Insteminated" 5.9...
Description
The Tieton (Tie-eh-ton) River crags are spread out along a twenty-mile stretch of the Tieton River drainage, on the east slope of the south Cascades. Most of the crags are andesite (volcanic rock similar to basalt), part of a fifty-mile long flow from the ancient Goat Rocks volcano.
There are more than 400 routes split almost evenly between trad and sport routes. In general, the crags in the lower canyon (Royal Columns, the Bend, Moon Rocks) tend to have more crack routes, while the crags higher in the drainage (the Oasis, the Cave, Rainbow Rocks, Wildcat, Lava Point and South Fork) feature more sport routes. Whether it's a reflection of the rock or the primary route developers, the Tieton shines at the 5.10 grade for trad routes and 5.11 grade for sport climbs.
The lower canyon is semi-arid with sagebrush, cactus and oak groves. The higher crags are in mixed forests of ponderosa pine and Douglas fir. Throughout the area, nearly every crag offers either morning or afternoon shade, and sometimes both. With a little planning, summer climbing in the Tieton can actually be more pleasant than in Leavenworth.
Watch for rattlesnakes in the lower canyon.
Getting There
If you're coming from Seattle or north, cross the Cascades on I-90, then take I-82 to Yakima. From Yakima, head west on Highway 12 approximately 20 miles, turning left where Highway 12 branches off of Highway 410. The first major crag (the Royal Columns) is about two miles ahead on the left, across from the Oak Creek Wildlife Area headquarters. Drive time approximately 3 hours.
From the South Sound (Tacoma and Olympia), or from Seattle to reach the upper Tieton crags, it's quicker in the summer to follow Highway 410 to Cayuse Pass, then take Highway 123 through Mt. Rainier National Park to Highway 12. Cross White Pass to the Tieton. Drive time approximately 2 and a half hours from Tacoma, even shorter to some crags.
From eastern Washington, get to Yakima, then follow the directions above.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tieton River:
This route was so absurdly good, it just had to be added to the database. A left leaning fingercrack leads to one beautiful fingerlock after another. In an area stacked with quality climbs, this route stands apart. One of many three star routes put up by Andy Fitz and Ed Mosshart. ...[more]Browse More Classics in WA
The ratings here seem to be sanbagged a little. If you haven't climbed here then you may want to start a grade or two lower and work your way up. The grades seem to become more accurate once you get to the 5.9 and up climbing. If your crack technique sucks, then they may even feel harder.
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