The lower Tieton crags (Royal Columns and the Bend) are closed for raptor nesting beginning February 1 each year. Depending on nest location and success, the closure can be lifted as early as April or as late as July.
Andy warming up on "Artificially Insteminated" 5.9...
Description
The Tieton (Tie-eh-ton) River crags are scattered along a twenty-mile stretch of the Tieton River drainage on the east slope of the south Cascades. Most of the crags are andesite (a volcanic rock similar to basalt) that originated as a fifty-mile long flow from the ancient Goat Rocks volcano.
The crags are typically columnar rock that's vertical, or tipped a few degrees either way. There are also some steeper walls of entablature rock, where the flow cooled more quickly into chaotic blocks.
There are more than 400 recorded routes in the Tieton, split almost evenly between trad and sport routes. In general, the crags in the lower canyon (Royal Columns, the Bend, Moon Rocks) feature more crack routes, while the crags higher in the drainage (the Oasis, the Cave, Rainbow Rocks, Wildcat, Lava Point and South Fork) feature more sport routes. Whether it's a reflection of the rock or the primary route developers, the Tieton shines most brightly at the 5.10 grade for trad routes and 5.11 grade for sport climbs.
The lower canyon is semi-arid with sagebrush, cactus and oak groves. In mild years it offers year-round climbing, but it can get very hot in the summer. Many of the higher crags are in mixed forests of ponderosa pine and Douglas fir. Throughout the area, nearly every crag offers either morning or afternoon shade, and sometimes both. With a little planning, summer climbing in the Tieton can actually be more pleasant than in Leavenworth.
In 2004, the first comprehensive guide in 15 years was published: Tieton River Rocks, by Marlene Ford & Jim Yoder.
Watch for rattlesnakes in the lower canyon.
Getting There
If you're coming from Seattle or north, cross the Cascades on I-90, then take I-82 to Yakima. From Yakima, head west on Highway 12 approximately 20 miles, turning left where Highway 12 branches off of Highway 410. The first major crag (the Royal Columns) is about two miles ahead on the left, across from the Oak Creek Wildlife Area headquarters. Drive time approximately 3 hours.
From the South Sound (Tacoma and Olympia), or from Seattle to reach the upper Tieton crags, it's quicker in the summer to follow Highway 410 to Cayuse Pass, then take Highway 123 through Mt. Rainier National Park to Highway 12. Cross White Pass to the Tieton. Drive time approximately 2 and a half hours from Tacoma, even shorter to some crags.
From eastern Washington, get to Yakima, then follow the directions above.
The ratings here seem to be sanbagged a little. If you haven't climbed here then you may want to start a grade or two lower and work your way up. The grades seem to become more accurate once you get to the 5.9 and up climbing. If your crack technique sucks, then they may even feel harder.
Tieton River
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