Walking to the first cluster at the Rhododendron G...
Description
Grayson Highlands State Park has a gigantic pool of bouldering opportunity. A large amount of the bouldering here has yet to be discovered or developed, but the amount of currently established problems and boulders is very numerous, quality, and growing monthly. There is everything from easygoing v-0's to completely horizontal v-9's with harder projects pending. So far there are four main areas that have many established problems, and then sub-areas therein that are continually becoming larger. The four main areas are the Rhododendron Gap boulders, the Listening Rock Trail loop boulders, the Bones and AVP area, and the Olympus (Rock House) area. There has been bouldering going on in this park for many years. A lot of those who have climbed here in the past have either tried to keep the parks tremendous bouldering potential a secret, or only knew the boulders on rhododendron gap and dismissed them because of the 30 minute hike. What once was thought of Grayson Highlands in terms of bouldering always revolved around Rhododendron Gap. The bouldering up on the mountain top crests is wonderful, and there is plenty of it, yet the hike discouraged many from viewing it as a climbing destination just by itself. This viewpoint has now drastically changed. Instead of only thinking of the crests, the bouldering at Grayson Highlands now revolves around the four main areas and there sub areas. these areas offer little to no approach, and the the same or more bouldering potential as what was thought of before, and these areas are constantly growing. The problems that are now established on the listening rock trail are fantastic and ever growing. The loop trail that these easily accessible blocks are located also have a few of the most scenic overlooks found in GHSP. The stone found on the "Listening Rock Trail" is quality, mostly overhanging (with a few exceptions) and private. There is also a brand new area that has just been found below the loop... explore and establish some new problems for yourself! Outside of the parks entrance (But still within the park boundary) is another awesome area that is being further developed called "The Bones" and "AVP" which has amazing established problems, along with projects waiting to go. The Approach to the Bones and AVP boulders is very short. Just pull off the road at the pull off on the right side of the road before the entrance to the park, walk across the road and over the park boundary fence and follow the small streambed to the bones boulders, or go up the hill side to the left after crossing the fence to get to the "AVP" area. Some of the best lines here are "Smooth Criminal"(V-7), and "O.A."(V-7)at the Bones. "Parlier's Problem"(V-6), and "S.Weaver"(V-8)at the AVP area. Also, one of the best lines on the AVP Boulder "Front Man" (V-4) has just seen another ascent by Steve Lovelace. The 3rd and most well known area in the park is the crests of boulders that can be seen from the hike up the Rhododendron Gap Trail. While these outcroppings do offer the most scenic views in the park and some quality bouldering, this isn't where you will find the best climbing at Grayson. The approach is the most strenuous for climbing in Grayson, and the distance between boulders is also the greatest. Still yet, if your up for the hike, the picturesque boulders you will find here make the hike more than well worth it, and on the hot days, the constant wind feels incredible. The classic problems here are "the Highland Hooker" (V-1), "The T-2 Project"(V-P highball), and "Foot Kaput" (V-4). A brand new development at Grayson is the Zeus Boulder, and the Olympus Bouldering area at the picnic grounds in the park. turn right at the sign on the main road in the park that says "Picnic" and follow the road down to the parking lot at the bottom at you are one minute from the most exciting new boulders and projects in Grayson Highlands. not only does this area have a drink machine, clean indoor working restrooms, historic cabins and an ancient stone graveyard, a play ground, grilling and picnic tables, easy trails and the shortest approach time in the park (40 seconds. its even shorter than the listening rock area), it also has giant expanses of overhanging boulders and unbelievable lines. check it out in the areas page under "Zeus (Rock House)." In Grayson, there are a few places to eat, but my personal recommendation is "Speedy's Chuckwagon" which has the most fantastic burgers and fries, and also amazing BBQ on select nights. Its also a small grocery so you can pick up some beer and TP if you're camping. Grayson has great trails to hike, horse back riding, beautiful waterfalls, cool mountain streams to fly fish, breath taking views, wild ponys, great camping, live music festivals, and relaxing nearby local cabins to rent. The Appalachian trail also runs through the park. there is also a great gift shop and many historical sights and cabins within the park, so if it does rain you out, you will still have things to do and see. Don't think the boulders listed are all that is at Grayson though, Come find out for yourself, and don't forget your strong arms.
Getting There
The park is on U.S. 58 midway between Independence and Damascus and is reached from I-81 at Exit 45 in Marion; turn south on Route 16 and travel 33 miles to US 58 in the community of Volney. Turn right onto US 58. Travel eight miles to the park's entrance.
From I-77, take Hillsville Exit 14 to U.S. 58. Travel west on U.S. 58, 40 miles to Volney. Turn left to stay on U.S. 58 and go eight miles to the park entrance.
Drive Time : Northern Va., 6.5 hours; Richmond, 5.5 hours; Tidewater, Norfolk, Virginia Beach, 7.5 hours; Roanoke, 2.5 hours; Winston-Salem, 2 hours; Charlotte, 3 hours; Raleigh, 4 hours
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grayson Highlands State Park:
sit start at the bottom of the middle of the boulder under a sharp, smallish flake and match on it. The feet are almost non-existent, and exist only on micro crystals or previously used hands.trend left making pumpy, near campus bumps through sharp flakes with feet smeared or on anything you can place them on.follow the line of flakes to a ledge that is below the lip, and then shoot to the lip for a good top out.Just to clarify: Aaron Parlier did...[more]Browse More Classics in VA
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