*Get the GHSP Bouldering Guidebook today! 160 full color pages of awesomeness, and over 360 select park problems. Incredible photography from Dan Brayack and concise directions and descriptions to GHSP's best blocks: brayackmedia.com
*The AVP Area is now secured and open to public access! Thanks to the hard work and dedication from the Central Appalachia Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund the AVP Boulders will have permanent and lasting protection and open access for climbing and recreation. Thanks so very much to everyone who donated and helped make this happen! Follow the link Here for information and background on the successful land acquisition of the AVP Area.
*The park now carries crashpads for day rentals! Rent a crashpad for $10 a day.
*If you are new to outdoor climbing or the park in general, please reference the "need to know" segment before your visit.
GHSP Beta:
Grayson Highlands State Park is the crown jewel of bouldering in the state of VA, and arguably the best summer bouldering in the southeast. Grayson Highlands State Park (GHSP) is best known however, for being the best of the best for all things scenic, hiking related, and basically for every facet of outdoor mountainous recreation in the state of Virginia. As a state park, GHSP is home to 4,822 acres of pristine recreational opportunities and mountain solitude. GHSP is attached to the wonderful, 200,000 acre Mount Rogers National Recreation Area. You have plenty of wilderness to experience!
There are over 1000 listed boulder problems ranging from easygoing to advanced (VB-V12/13). The rock type found here is Rhyolite and a unique, varying conglomerate or metasandstone (elsewhere in the park). Rhyolite is a volcanic rock derived from melted continental crust that is a darker color, and if you look close, you'll find it is often polka dotted with bright pink inclusions which are phenocrysts of feldspar. The metamorphic sandstone elsewhere in the park is a sharp geometric stone, so you can be sure to find ultra steep, powerful faces on many of the boulders, blades, and fins protruding from the ground. On them will be crimpy rails, flakes, edges, pinches, and picturesque angular features.
GHSP's boulder fields have the highest altitudes in the southeast with the majority of the bouldering found in the 4,500' - 4,900' range and the Highlands Area reaching past 5,000' (the lookout at Grandmother Mountain in Boone is 4063').
The main boulder fields in GHSP are the Listening Rock Trail Loop (LRT), the Boneyard areas, and the Highlands Bouldering Area. For many visitors, the LRT has the best bouldering in the park. It has hundreds of problems, amazing lines, a very short approach, and the trail meanders through most of the main boulders. The Highlands Area is without a doubt the poster child of the park and is the most beautiful bouldering area in VA (if not the southeast). Vast landscape settings with near endless views, a cool breeze in the warm months, and little wild ponies running around.
The smaller areas easily hold some of the very best GHSP has to offer. The Contact Station Area is only a minute walk after you park at the Park Office just as you drive past the pay booth (if you look left as you drive up to pay you can see the True Grit Boulder). It has "True Grit" which is one of the most sought after V5s in the park, and many other amazing lines that you shouldn't miss. The Picnic Area has the massive Olympus Boulder which is worth the drive down just to see, and the Rock House Boulder. Both are literally seconds away from where you park.
For food, there are only a few places to eat but my personal recommendation is The Grayson Highlands General Store with awesome food and beer options, and further down the road is "The Log House" with burgers and fries. If you're looking for a warm mom & pop country kitchen, or general store type of place than these locations wont disappoint. If you time it right during the summer on Friday and Saturday nights the Log House sometime has live bluegrass music on the back deck. All the store/restaurants offer small selections of groceries so you can pick up some supplies if you're camping.
Grayson has great trails to hike, horseback riding, beautiful waterfalls, and cool mountain streams to fly fish, breathtaking views, wild ponies, great camping, live music festivals, and relaxing nearby local cabins to rent. The Appalachian Trail also runs through the park. There is also a great gift shop and many historical sites and cabins within the park, so if it does rain you out, you'll still have things to do and see.
*Grades are all fluid (as they should be in any area) and depend on YOU giving feedback to gain a consensus. Let me know of any discrepancies and please vote to adjust the grades on the problems accordingly... Keep in mind that some problems in GHSP have seen only one or two ascents and the person who FAd that line may think it is way harder/easier than you do. Consensus is needed, so feel free to post or vote your opinion to help GHSP have the most accurate grades possible.
The park is on U.S. 58 midway between Independence and Damascus and is reached from I-81 at Exit 45 in Marion; turn south on Route 16 and travel 33 miles to US 58 in the community of Volney. Turn right onto US 58. Travel eight miles to the park's entrance.
From I-77, take Hillsville Exit 14 to U.S. 58. Travel west on U.S. 58, 40 miles to Volney. Turn left to stay on U.S. 58 and go eight miles to the park entrance.
Drive Time : Northern Va., 6.5 hours; Richmond, 5.5 hours; Tidewater, Norfolk, Virginia Beach, 7.5 hours; Roanoke, 2.5 hours; Winston-Salem, 2 hours; Charlotte, 3 hours; Raleigh, 4 hours
One way or another, GHSP sounds like a really amazing place (and the pictures are phenomenal) and I hope to check it out as soon as possible. Thanks also for all the work on this area, it is very informative and appears to have been done by people who are intimately knowledgeable about the area. Jan 31, 2010
Boone, NC
Grayson is absolutely fantastic. I have never had the opportunity to go to Hueco, but I have seen a significant amount of east coast climbing, and my favorite place is still Grayson. Hands down.
The star rating is within Grayson, since I don't know every classic problem from Yosemite to Pawtuckaway. Just know that any four-star will be awesome. Feb 6, 2010
Boone, NC
PS-Myself and a number of my friends have commented on how the picture you have posted on the home page looks strikingly like Hueco Tanks. Really, if you just showed the picture to someone, chance are they would guess Hueco. It definitely seems to be a positive omen . . . Feb 20, 2010
Boone, NC
-I had never noticed it, but now that you mention it, the picture does bear a striking resemblance... thats crazy, lol- Feb 20, 2010
PORTLAND, OR
I was at the comp at the rock the other night. I'm president of VT's climbing club but won't be after this semester because I'm graduating. Anyway, I'm trying to head down there with COEveryman (Jordan) soon to check the area out. Hope it's as good as you say, the pictures look totally awesome. Feb 20, 2010
Boone, NC
Im really excited about joining the climbing club myself. At the comp I placed second in advanced, I don't know if that helps put name-to-face or not.
I wish I had more/better pictures of the place. The ones here are a vast understatement, and the there are entire areas without representation...Im working on it I swear. Anyway, I can guarantee you'll love the place.
I hate you wont be there next semester (congrats on graduating soon though), but I would like to show you guys around. there will be some really exciting bouldering going on there this coming season, so stay in touch. It's going to kick off soon hopefully, and the more hands and pads the better the climb! Feb 21, 2010
Boone, NC
Unfortunately I dont know of anywhere in sova with rental pads... the regular hikers in the park are just now getting used to seeing "pad people". Still yet, there are a growing number of boulderers with pads here, and I know i personally would be glad to throw in a pad/spot if you came to GHSP to boulder. Jun 4, 2010
Boone, NC
Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
youtube.com/watch?v=iLgJz3M… Jul 10, 2010
Boone, NC
Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
I didnt think it was Jaws, but I couldnt remember what else it could have been, thanks for the clarification. I did send Bi-Lingual the correct way, but the video of the SDS was only a partial and the stand version was unfortunately better. Thanks for the comments and the awesome time up at Grayson! Jul 12, 2010
Marmet, WV
I would say Front Man at Bishop would be 3 stars (out of 4), but would be 4 star at HP-40/LRC/South East.
"True Grit" would be probably 4 star at Hueco or maybe a high 3, but probably a 2 or 3 star in the south due to sharpness.
Both are 4 star problems at Grayson.
SLS would be 3 or 4 star anywhere.
just from my experiences.... May 25, 2011
Marmet, WV
But seriously, I think Thews would be 3 or 4 stars probably anywhere.
Beastmaker same thing - never been on it/can't do it so I couldn't say.
star ratings are all really objective of course. Like Julia (Statler) hated "True Grit" I wouldn't give it four stars either, but our friend Ryan loved it and was like "best problem Eva' " May 26, 2011
Thanks Jun 20, 2011
Boone, NC
No problem, Ill post more info in the next day or so! Jun 20, 2011
Boone, NC
I've posted some info under the "need to know" info tab on the left side of the screen under the areas portion on the main page above... Click on :need to know info" then click on "Camping" and you'll find hopefully what you need to know on camping. If not, please ask me any further questions and Ill be happy to help in any way! Jun 22, 2011
I was wondering when the guidebook is set to be released?
Also, will it only be for sale or for free online?
Cheers,
DA Jun 24, 2011
Boone, NC
Marion, NC
Boone, NC
I'm planning on coming down for the weekend soon (maybe even tomorrow) and I wanted to know where to set up camp that is nearest to that picture of the somewhat highball problem (the contrasted picture with the person standing on top, hands high)? Essentially, where should my GF and I stay that is near showers/toilets...etc and also allows for a reasonable hike to those big boulders? Thanks! Oct 7, 2011
Boone, NC
Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner, Ive been doing the Triple Crown bouldering comps and I just returned from Chattanooga. The best place to camp nearest the boulders (I think youre referring to the Highland Area which encompasses the Wilburn Ridge region of the park and continues into the Mount Rogers National Recreation Area "MRNRA"). If you hike up from the parking area for Wilburn Ridge just follow the trail up and stay on the Appalachian Trail (dont turn right to the first huge cluster) you will pass through a wooden hiker/pony gate. Once you pass through that you can camp anywhere for free. Its beautiful out there! Again, sorry it took me a couple days to reply, usually Im quick about it. Hope you got out there! Oct 9, 2011
vimeo.com/32239559 Dec 12, 2011
Boone, NC
Yes on both counts, Par's Problem is an 8 and Finger Confusion is/was a 7, but its just grades man, I loved the video! I cant wait for warmer weather to come back and for some spring time sessions... I guess its the south for the winter for now. Again, nice video and Im glad you guys got to climb some fun problems, they're all really good lines! Dec 12, 2011
Boone, NC
Muncie, IN
Boone, NC
Muncie, IN
Boone, NC
No problem on the info! I am finishing up the guide as we speak, but, no it will not be for sale by that time...
I do recommend that you check out the LRT and Picnic Areas if they are open at that point in the year (its been a very mild winter so chances are good)...
In addition to these areas or if the gates are closed to the aforementioned areas, the Boneyard/AVP is amazing but sometimes they can be hard to navigate without a local or some prior knowledge. That being said, lots of people find their way around the place okay just by MP directions... Still yet, to get the full GHSP experience, I always recommend checking out the Highlands Area, especially on your first visit... its phenomenal and is an experience you can only really find in Grayson. Also be sure to stop by the Contact Station since its one of the most straight forward areas to climb at and it doesn't disappoint. Hope this helps! And be sure to keep an eye on the weather! Feb 14, 2012
Muncie, IN
Boone, NC
The areas are pretty self explanatory if you follow the directions off of MP. The boulders in picnic, Contact Station, and even AVP are smaller clusters (4-8 big boulders), and the LRT boulders aren't too hard to navigate... Shoot me an email when you plan on visiting and I would be glad to try to meet up and show you around some of the areas you're interested in since the guidebook isn't out yet. I have no doubt you could find you're way around without a problem, but having someone that is familiar with the place makes things easier for sure. If that sounds good just let me know! Otherwise, print off the pages here and you'll do fine. Feb 18, 2012
Boone, NC
Glad you came out! The LRT is still closed and it is normally the most frequented area for people who have not been to the park before. Its the same situation for the Picnic Area. Without a guidebook or a local to show you all around its going to be hard to find a lot of the areas even though they are very close to the parking areas. MP is good for a reference in well known areas but for GHSP it can be hard to navigate with if you arent at all familiar with the park. The boneyard is often the most difficult area to find for new visitors and I wont try to describe it over a comment but Im always glad to show people around. GHSP is a big place and the areas are spread throughout the park in clusters. If you go there and only know of one or two places it will seem as if it offers much less than the boulder problems that are presently there. If you want to meet up and check out the boneyard/AVP area that would be great, or wait for a bit as the guidebook is in its final stage and should be out for the late summer/fall season. Mar 12, 2012
Boone, NC
The Contact Station Area, AVP, Boneyard, Crooked Road, and Highlands Areas all are open year long though, and with those areas you would have several days worth of bouldering to explore. Hope you make it down! Mar 18, 2012
Boone, NC
Its easy to find Highlands and Contact. Really easy in fact. But AVP and Boneyard have proved somewhat difficult for new visitors to the park. AVP less so than Boneyard, but the two are practically in the same place. I know many people who have navigated the area without a hitch but others who were desperately confused. Keep me posted on when you'll be in the area, just shoot me a message or two closer to time, and I will be happy to give you a guide around (maybe even get into the LRT if we're lucky) if youre interested. Mar 19, 2012
Boone, NC
Davis, CA
Thanks a lot! Sorry its a lot of questions, I just can't find much information on the internet other than what you have here on this site. If I think of anything else I'll be sure to ask. Mar 29, 2012
Boone, NC
Hey man, glad to hear you guys are heading up this way! The "budget camping" is in the MRNRA and you get there by parking in the overnight lot (as far as I know its a 3 dollar fee to park in GHSP, but overnight parking may be a couple bucks more, Im not 100% sure, but if it is an additional fee it shouldnt be much). Park in the overnight lot and then hike up the hill via the "Rhododendron Gap Trail". Once at the top of the hill (obvious when youre there I assure you) you will link onto the Appalachian trail toward Mount Rogers. Follow it to the "Pony Fence" (also very obvious as its the only fence you come to) and once you are on the other side (on MRNRA land) you can camp anywhere you want.
The hike there, depending on how much gear you have with you and how many ponies you decide to stop and admire, should take approximately 30min.
Hopefully I'll run into you guys out there (I drive a green Jeep Compass with a bunch of stickers on the roof wind faring thing if you want to session/say hello/ask where something is). Also just shoot me a message if you have any other questions, Im always stoked to help out! Mar 29, 2012
Boone, NC
Boone, NC
The Highlands Area has the best dry time in the park. Within an hour of rain some of the stuff up there is dry and ready to climb. Within two hours and providing there is a steady breeze (there almost always is) you should be good to go on most every line up in the highlands.
Outside of that, the rest of the park takes a bit longer to dry off. Possibly AVP would dry off in a few hours and the Contact Station seems to dry off pretty quickly... But my highest recommendation for a rainy day would be the Highlands.
Psyched you coming out! There is a rental crash pad and chalk for sale in the park office just past the pay booth if you need supplies. Spread the word! Leave a comment on how your trip goes! Jul 10, 2012
Ryan Jul 19, 2012
Boone, NC
Thanks so much for the comments Ryan! Its awesome to get some feedback about peoples trips. I'm really glad to hear you had a good time despite the storms. Last week was a rough one as far as the weather goes but the Highlands areas are a great place for that. About an hour after the rain hits up there the boulders usually dry out. The park staff really is amazing and without them none of this would ever be possible. Hope you get to make it back up soon!
-Aaron Jul 20, 2012
Is the guide book out yet? Coming down to check the place out Friday before triple crown... Place looks sick!
- Nathan Sep 17, 2012
Chattanooga, TN
Boone, NC
Thanks a lot! It's been a long rewarding process and so much fun along the way. I'm happy to hear youve climbed a bunch of the classics too! I love that section of the AT and there are hundreds of amazing boulders throughout the MRNRA to check out. Be on the lookout for the guidebook when it comes out this winter, it will make navigation to some of the other classics super easy. Hope to see you all out there! Oct 28, 2012
VA, NC, TN
Boone, NC
Hello! August/Sept is pretty hot, although it is seemingly very cool by comparison to any other southeastern bouldering area. September is generally pretty perfect and one of the best months to visit. Even in the dog days of early/mid August its climbable with the nice temps in the late afternoon and all day climbing in the Highland Areas. The steep faces provide shade all day but mid day it can be muggy. You should be fine to climb here in the timeframe you are talking about. Glad to hear you may come out! Be sure to pick up one of the guidebooks too -Lots of good info and even better photos-!
-Aaron Feb 21, 2013
Is the guide available yet? Im super excited to come check this place out! Apr 11, 2013
Boone, NC
Hey, glad to hear youre excited to come up! The guide is finished and will be available, fingers crossed, May 10th (prime climbing season for GHSP)! Apr 11, 2013
Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
cruxn.com/grayson-highlands…
Great book! Jul 20, 2013
Soft Lake City
-DoNstamos Feb 18, 2014
Boone, NC
There is great camping within the park, but it is pretty costly if you are by yourself. I would recommend some of the national forest areas surrounding the park (you can find maps and locations on line with ease) that would be free to park and camp. The conditions are fairly temperamental during the spring, but with luck it will be a dry season and the climbing will be good. If you are used to the cold you'll be fine. The holds are pretty thin and most of the climbing is steep, so if it is chilly out it can feel pretty sharp (but the friction will be superb). Dogs are allowed for sure, but there is a 6ft leash regulation. Hope this helps! Let me know if I can help out with any more info. Feb 18, 2014
Soft Lake City
Thanks for all the info, I certainly plan on spending a few days here. Any thoughts on weather I should get a guidebook if it's only for a few days? I was wondering how ambitious it would be to try and climb stone mountain and possibly rumbling bald as well. I will have roughly 7 climb/travel days. I will be with a buddy and my dog, are there any restrictions on dogs at stone or rumbling? I hope I'm not blowing up your spot at ghsp, I will certainly respect the area/rock. Thanks again for all the info.
-stamos Feb 19, 2014
Boone, NC
For dogs, I see them all the time at the bald, but I don't know the policy for Stone. As for the GHSP guide, I always recommend it. The areas are somewhat spread out in clusters within the park, so it can be really handy as opposed to trying to navigate only by mountain project. There are 350 classic lines shown in the guide, and almost 900 listed on MP, so it can make it much easier especially if you have never visited before. It will be pretty ambitious trying to fit in all 3 locations, the bald is over 3 hrs away from ghsp, but do-able if the weather is really nice (the bald is like an oven too, so if it is nice and chilly at ghsp, it will be super warm/hot at rb, probably nearing the end of the balds climbing season). You are in no way blowing up the area! the park encourages climbing and Im stoked when folks travel to visit ghsp! let me know how iit goes, and I would be happy to recommend areas/climbs in ghsp if you all would like a short list of must-do problems. Feb 19, 2014
Boone, NC
Great to hear you like the guide! Thanks for the info on dogs/climbing at Stone too, the bouldering looks really good there (as well as the beautiful routes!). I need to make it out that way soon. Feb 19, 2014
Soft Lake City
Thanks gents! Feb 20, 2014
Boone, NC
V2: "Highland Highball"(Highlands Area)
"Bi-Lingual"(LRT)
"Cap Gun"(Boneyard)
"Presidents Problem"(Boneyard)
"Cannonade"(Boneyard)
V3: "That's My Money"(AVP)
"Indian Outlaw"(Picnic)
"The Hive"(LRT)
"Periscope"(Contact)
"Copper Head"(Contact)
V4: "Crazy Horse"(Picnic)(Kind of Highball)
"Billy Budd"(Boneyard)
"Front Man-Stand"(AVP)
"Foot Kaput"(Highlands)
"Ranger Rick Low"(Contact)
V5: "Front Man"(AVP)
"True Grit"(Contact Station)
"Tigerside"(LRT)
"Strength In Numbers"(LRT)(Highball, but last 6ft are jugs)
V6: "Thews"(Boneyard)
"Horizon line"(Highlands)(Highball, but too good not to get on)
"Last Action Hero"(Boneyard)
"Frisky Monkey"(LRT)
"Shanghai Knight"(LRT)
"Paladin"(V6)
Get after it! Feb 20, 2014
Boone, NC
The service at GHSP is dependent on your provider. If you have Verizon you can get decent signal at the entrance to the park, and at a few other spotty locations. Other providers have similar, or absolutely no signal anywhere in the area. I have heard from a few of the rangers that a new tower was put in near the park and that some signal (still Verizon) has improved, but I cannot speak to this as I was there a few days ago and the signal was still spotty. I hope this helps, and I'm happy to hear you like the guide! If you have any questions at all feel free to message me at any time! Mar 5, 2014
Boone, NC
Conditions may be great, but the roads/gates to the LRT and Picnic might still be closed for the season. Mid April is usually the earliest the park opens the gates for the rest of the year. If the winter was mild, sometimes it can be earlier, but it is never guaranteed. Mar 18, 2014
Boone, NC
GHSP has the guidebook for sale at the park office (where you park for the Contact station Area). The next closest place they can be picked up is in Boone NC. Hope you trip is awesome! Apr 21, 2014
Boone, NC
Greensboro, North Carolina
First off wanted to commend you for investing a tremendous amount of energy in making such a gem of a natural resource accessible! I'm sold on spending at least a weekend or two at GHSP by mid-October and two of my good friends are on board as well. Thing is we're all very new to climbing and trying to figure out which are the most doable boulder problems in the park and how to make the best of our time there.
My question is what do you think are the easiest boulder problems to put on our to-do list that would be worth checking out? I can't see us doing anything over a V3 as we struggle enough on those at the gym. We're going to be trying to boulder at least 3 times a week for the next few weeks to try and get at least a little stronger but I still think considering the difference between the gym and outside that we should still be shooting for the easiest of the boulder problems. Hoping you can help us out, thanks!
Sincerely,
Samir Sep 20, 2014
Boone, NC
Hello! Thanks a lot, it's been (and still is) a ton of fun up here at GHSP. As for the V0-V3 grade range, there truly is a TON to choose from and I will include some of my favorites here. Dont feel limited to these however. I could take up pages worth of problems that are great in that range. I did a quick MP search for problems from 0-3 and over 600 problems showed up for GHSP. Still yet, here are a few that I like:
-Highland Highball
-All Things Considered
-Thats My Money
-Façade
-Robot Love
-Life is a House
-Narcolepsy Crack
-Periscope
-Ranger Rick
-Foggy Mtn Fin
-Ballad of Love and Hate
-Bicentennial Arete
-Moonlight Sonata
-Cherokee Dihedral
-Indian Outlaw
-The Hive
-Honey Comb
-Anything located on the "Warm Up Wall" at the LRT
That should keep yall busy for a while, and there are so many more too! Hope this helps and your trip up is awesome.
-Aaron Sep 21, 2014
Nashville, TN
I was there last october and lost a small bag of sd cards i think those might be mine. they were full of wonderful footage i shot of a bunch of classics at grayson as well as some rad photos aka a lot of memories. please send them to 610 fortwood place apt2, chattanooga, tn 37403 or email me at drewbmeyer@gmail.com.
I am so happy you found them i thought they were lost for ever!
-Sincerely,
Drew B Meyer Oct 7, 2014
Boone, NC
I hope you get this before you head out to GHSP this weekend! GHSP will, aside from the Highlands and Mt Rogers Area, be closed for the annual deer hunt in the park. The dates the park will be closed for the hunts are: Saturday, Nov 1st, Monday Nov 3rd, Tuesday Nov 4th, Friday Nov 17th, and Saturday Nov 18th. Also, Saturday looks like it may snow... For the most part Volney is a good bet for checking the weather. You can type in Grayson Highlands State Park on weather.com for more specific forecasts, and also on Graysonhighlandsbouldering.com there is a link to a live weather webcam at the Park Office. Oct 28, 2014
Thanks for the info! It would have been quite disappointing to drive down from Lexington, KY only to find the park closed. I guess I'll have to wait to experience what is by all accounts some stellar bouldering.
Also, thanks for the weather info.
Quinn Oct 29, 2014
Asheville, NC
Boone, NC
It all revolves around the weather after the rain. If its windy and rains only in the morning, most everything at the start of the LRT and everything in the Highlands will dry out by the afternoon. After a full day of rain, expect not to climb until the following day. The Picnic Area, Contact, Boneyard and AVP boulders all take a full day to dry. No special concerns really! The climbing here is very crimpy and steep so be sure your skin is in good shape. If you have any specific questions feel free to message me! Apr 29, 2016
Arlington, VA
Boone, NC
You can use the rakkup guide to substitute the physical guidebook. Its pretty cool and is a cheaper option for sure. The physical guide is awesome if you think you will ever return in the future and Dan Brayack's photography is top notch. The park office carries and sales the GHSP Bouldering guidebook, and you can find it at a couple of stores in Boone NC as well. May 3, 2016
Thank you Mar 5, 2017
Boone, NC
New Paltz
Boone, NC
Boulder
P.S. if anyone is gonna be in the area this weekend send me a PM! May 11, 2024