This route is located in the recess to the left of Moonlight and shares that route's first pitch and a half. It breaks out left at this point and follows an interesting line of corners, flakes and face climbing with a cool, steep jamming pitch as the finale.
This is a fun route that doesn't get as much traffic as the surrounding trade routes. Aiding the whole route would probably warrant a slightly harder rating (C2ish?). This route is best enjoyed as a long free climb with the occasional french-free move as opposed to climbing it "wall style". The aid is straight-forward and when it gets tricky a moderate free move will get you to the next bomber placement. The only pitch we aided in entirety was the crux 5.13 RP crack (there's a 12b variation that starts down and right) and the rest of the route went free or french-free. The bolts are like Moonlight's: fat and bomber.
Two friends and I did this route on 11/25/05. It was a great route, tons of fun, very mellow aid. There were only a few times where an aid piece was anything less than bomber.
The topo from www.bigwall.com worked well, however we didn't need or use any cam hooks or lowe balls. Hybrid aliens, and offset HB's were great. Fixed gear was fine...there were a few more bolts and drilled pitons than seemed necessary, though.
Camalots: Two each #.5 - #4 (#4s only used on pitch 9) Aliens: two blues, triples through red. Offsets not needed. One set of offset nuts (brass and aluminum)
Pitch 8&9 link easily.
Could link pitch 10 and half of pitch 11 (intermediate anchor).
By Drew Bedford From: Wasatch Back, UT Nov 5, 2008
I had a small part in the FFA of this route, so I get requests for a topo of the free version. I'll post it up in the photos area.
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