All Locations > Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Moonlight Buttress

Sheer Lunacy

Name: Sheer Lunacy
Rating: 3.4

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British C2-

Routes in Moonlight Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Looney Tunes 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2+
	Lunar Ecstasy 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2+
	Moonlight Buttress (Clean Aid), The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
	Moonlight Buttress (Free), The T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Moonshadow T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sheer Lunacy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C2-
	Sheer Lunacy (Free) T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

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Type:	Trad, Aid, Grade IV
GPS:	37.27785, -112.94955
FA:	Ron Olevsky
Page Views:	17,288 total · 60/month
Shared By:	Joe Auer on May 11, 2002
Admins:	Fallon Rowe, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Closures in effect March 1
Check for current Raptor closure conditions at:

nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/…

Description

This route is located in the recess to the left of Moonlight and shares that route's first pitch and a half. It breaks out left at this point and follows an interesting line of corners, flakes and face climbing with a cool, steep jamming pitch as the finale.

This is a fun route that doesn't get as much traffic as the surrounding trade routes. Aiding the whole route would probably warrant a slightly harder rating (C2ish?). This route is best enjoyed as a long free climb with the occasional french-free move as opposed to climbing it "wall style". The aid is straight-forward and when it gets tricky a moderate free move will get you to the next bomber placement. The only pitch we aided in entirety was the crux 5.13 RP crack (there's a 12b variation that starts down and right) and the rest of the route went free or french-free. The bolts are like Moonlight's: fat and bomber.