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Moonlight Buttress
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Lowe / Weiss Route 
Lunar Ecstasy 
Moonlight Buttress, The 
Sheer Lunacy 

Sheer Lunacy 

5.11 C1

   

FA: Ron Olevsky
Type: Trad, Aid
Consensus: 5.10b/c C1-2 [details]
Length:  Grade IV
Views: 1,250 page views

Submitted By: Joe A on May 12, 2002


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Starting up the amazing flake pitch.


Description 

This route is located in the recess to the left of Moonlight and shares that route's first pitch and a half.

This is a fun route that doesn't get as much traffic as the surrounding cattle drives. Aiding the whole route would probably warrant a slightly harder rating (C2ish?) and hauling on it would not be fun at all. Wear your rock shoes for the whole route.

The aid is straight-forward and when it gets tricky a moderate free move will get you to the next bomber placement. The only pitch we aided in entirety was the crux 5.13 RP crack (there's a 12b variation that starts down and right) and the rest of the route went free or french-free. The bolts are like Moonlight's: fat and bomber.


Protection 

  • Two each #.5 - #3 Camalot
  • One each. #3.5 and #4 Camalot
  • Double set of TCUs/Aliens (offset Aliens helpful)
  • One set of RPs (offset HBs helpful)



Add Photo Photos of Sheer Lunacy
Some pitch I can't remember.

Some pitch I can't remember.

Pitch 10

Pitch 10

Pitch 4.

BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4.

The Shroud of Elvis

BETA PHOTO: The Shroud of Elvis

Shuttling the pigs, pitch 4

Shuttling the pigs, pitch 4

Climbers on Sheer Lunacy.

Climbers on Sheer Lunacy.

Somewhere on high.

Somewhere on high.


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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 28, 2005

Two friends and I did this route on 11/25/05. It was a great route, tons of fun, very mellow aid. There were only a few times where an aid piece was anything less than bomber.

The topo from www.bigwall.com worked well, however we didn't need or use any cam hooks or lowe balls. Hybrid aliens, and offset HB's were great. Fixed gear was fine...there were a few more bolts and drilled pitons than seemed necessary, though.