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Steins Pillar
Routes Sorted
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NE Face (5.8 C2 or 5.11a) T 
Rocket Ride S 
Tammy Jo Memorial  S 
West Face Route (5.10d or 5.6 A3) T 
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West Face Route (5.10d or 5.6 A3) 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ???
Season: Summer
Page Views: 2,022
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jun 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch: 5.10 fingers 2nd pitch: 10+ face with b...

Description 

The first two pitches of this climb were really good. The rock was sound and the pro was bomber for the most part. We did this climb in two pitches and I would recommend doing so. The second pitch is all bolts and fixed gear except for some small stoppers so don't be afraid to use up the hardware on the dihedral if you combine one and two. The rope begins to get heavy as you reach the second set of chains but the belay stance is comfortable. The first belay would have been hanging and since we had three people we combined 1&2. There is another route that ascends the arete to the left and the anchors for it are just a few feet left. Our third hung out there as the last pitch was lead. The last pitch climbs the crack above the belay then zigs right and eventually back left but the drag is manageable with runners. Unfortunately there is a 15 ft. steep section of crappy rock about 60 feet up but the pro is good so we all pulled for all we were worth. If it did break the debris would miss your partners and the fall would be clean. The rest of the climbing is fun and the summit was well worth it.

Location 

As you drop down the left side you will see a nice looking tight corner with an obvious crack. Easy climbing on slightly funky rock gets you to it. Descend the NE face from poorly placed chain anchors. Use two ropes. We did two long raps and one short one but you might be able to reach the ground in two.

Protection 

Small stoppers up to finger size, doubles on cams to yellow camalot and one blue. Mostly new bolts and old pins, chain anchors at the first and second belay. You might add some finger size cams if you want to really sew up the dihedral.


Photos of West Face Route (5.10d or 5.6 A3) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo map of Stein's Pillar West Face
BETA PHOTO: Topo map of Stein's Pillar West Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Just before busting out on the right side loose fl...
Just before busting out on the right side loose fl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Me on 1st pitch with the 2nd and 3rd pitches trave...
BETA PHOTO: Me on 1st pitch with the 2nd and 3rd pitches trave...
Rock Climbing Photo: relaxin on the summit
relaxin on the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: More of the 1st pitch
BETA PHOTO: More of the 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Waling on those loose flakes like a hungry bear on...
BETA PHOTO: Waling on those loose flakes like a hungry bear on...
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave McRae on the bolted chossy hands section of p...
BETA PHOTO: Dave McRae on the bolted chossy hands section of p...
Rock Climbing Photo: The beautiful finger crack of the 1st pitch
BETA PHOTO: The beautiful finger crack of the 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Dave McRae on the 5.8 angling crack of pitch 4.
BETA PHOTO: Dave McRae on the 5.8 angling crack of pitch 4.
Rock Climbing Photo: Solid stems and jams in a v-slot corner - good tim...
Solid stems and jams in a v-slot corner - good tim...
Rock Climbing Photo: Oh Yeah! Pullin some of the last moves of the loos...
BETA PHOTO: Oh Yeah! Pullin some of the last moves of the loos...

Comments on West Face Route (5.10d or 5.6 A3) Add Comment
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By derek craig
Sep 19, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Despite the somewhat questionable rock on the third pitch it is actually really good! I really enjoyed the third pitch and I would give this route four stars at least--much better than doinking around on the aid pitch on the other side...
By BighornAdams
May 31, 2012

The first pitch dihedral is classic and the third pitch is super fun. Highly recommended! Bring some small stoppers for the second pitch.
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Oct 21, 2013

This is a great line with some excellent, varied climbing culminating in an isolated and aesthetic summit - what more could you want? If in Utah, Stein's would be a heavily traveled classic tower. Instead, it sits in obscurity in the Ochocos of Central Oregon.
By CritConrad
From: Bend, OR
Mar 23, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Pitch 1 starts off not super great but the dihedral above is amazing. Sustained, and good stone with tons of gear if you have it. I sewed that thing up! we linked it with pitch 2 and even with lots of runners I was feeling the rope. Pitch three started off amazingly fun and then after the ramp quickly turned to garbage and leaves you at possibly the worst belay I've ever spent time at! pitch 4 starts off with some big exposure, loose flakes, and questionable gear. Once the bolt is clipped the rock turns bomber and it is very mellow to the cool summit!
By Bowie
From: Portland, OR
May 2, 2016
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I thought the steep face climbing on the second pitch (if you break it down into 4 and don't link) was the hardest bit of the day. The first pitch is great fun with good gear. The 3rd/4th have some steep parts I found burly, but were also really fun and there were new bolts and gear when needed. We did this on a beautiful Sunday where the lines at Smith would have been out of control, and had Steins pillar and its great summit all to ourselves. Overall really enjoyable - DO IT!

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