Unknown on the SW or W face.  5.10c/d

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Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 400 feet Consensus:  5.10c/d [details] FA:  ??? Season:  Summer Submitted By:  1Eric Rhicard on Jun 15, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch: 5.10 fingers
2nd pitch: 10+ face with b...

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Description 

The first two pitches of this climb were really good. The rock was sound and the pro was bomber for the most part. We did this climb in two pitches and I would recommend doing so. The second pitch is all bolts and fixed gear except for some small stoppers so don't be afraid to use up the hardware on the dihedral if you combine one and two. The rope begins to get heavy as you reach the second set of chains but the belay stance is comfortable. The first belay would have been hanging and since we had three people we combined 1&2. There is another route that ascends the arete to the left and the anchors for it are just a few feet left. Our third hung out there as the last pitch was lead. The last pitch climbs the crack above the belay then zigs right and eventually back left but the drag is manageable with runners. Unfortunately there is a 15 ft. steep section of crappy rock about 60 feet up but the pro is good so we all pulled for all we were worth. If it did break the debris would miss your partners and the fall would be clean. The rest of the climbing is fun and the summit was well worth it.

Location 

As you drop down the left side you will see a nice looking tight corner with an obvious crack. Easy climbing on slightly funky rock gets you to it. Descend the NE face from poorly placed chain anchors. Use two ropes. We did two long raps and one short one but you might be able to reach the ground in two.

Protection 

Small stoppers up to finger size, doubles on cams to yellow camalot and one blue. Mostly new bolts and old pins, chain anchors at the first and second belay. You might add some finger size cams if you want to really sew up the dihedral.

Photos of Unknown on the SW or W face. Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Me on 1st pitch with the 2nd and 3rd pitches trave...	BETA PHOTO: Dave McRae on the bolted chossy hands section of p...	Just before busting out on the right side loose fl...
BETA PHOTO: Waling on those loose flakes like a hungry bear on...	BETA PHOTO: Oh Yeah! Pullin some of the last moves of the loos...	BETA PHOTO: Dave McRae on the 5.8 angling crack of pitch 4.
relaxin on the summit