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Routes in Steins Pillar

NE Face (5.8 C2 or 5.11a) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2
Rocket Ride S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tammy Jo Memorial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
West Face Route (5.10d or 5.6 A3) T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 350 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Kent Benesch/Cassandra Hummel
Page Views: 814 total, 25/month
Shared By: kent benesch on Apr 24, 2015
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

The route is 3 pitches long, all bolts. I believe you will need 12-15 quick draws. All anchors are bolts with chains on them. If you summit you must rap the North Face route ( all bolts with chains )a 60 meter rope will work with 4 rappels.
Pitch 1= 5.11a 80 feet
Pitch 2= 5.11c/d 80 feet (classic arete solid rock)
Pitch 3= 5.11c/d 100 feet

Location

Left of the original Southwest face route. About 50 left of the dihedral on pitch 1 of the Southwest face.

Protection

All bolts

Photos

Kevin MP
Redmond, OR
  5.11c
Kevin MP   Redmond, OR
  5.11c
Amazing! All three pitches are classic in their own right and the exposure is ridiculous.

Zach - thank you, the wasps have been exterminated (from the only pocket on the entire route). I have your chalk ball if you want it back.

Update: First pitch now has a direct start from the ground that eliminates the traverse in from the right. The real climbing starts after the horizontal break. P1 & P3 each have 13 bolts. Sep 30, 2017
Climbed for the total solar eclipse! Climbed it three times over the weekend and loved it more and more. Epic route. Nick_M's comments helpful, overly enthusiastic details to follow:

Rappel from North side of route (only bolts with chains on them at the top) requires 70 meter rope. A 60m will leave you dangling well above the next ledge. On large ledge, rap from large anchor hangers (no chains).

Starting the route: the first bolt is about 10m off the ground from the best belay position. We started the route by scrambling through the bushes to the right of the bolt and onto a small ledge below the first bolt. Handling the rope may be a challenge, but the other option is a not-very-easy chimney with a big overhang to go over 6m up.

First pitch: straightforward, sustained, with small and sharp holds that characterize the entire route. Always something there when you need it. Most climbing just to right of bolts, well bolted. Hardest moves just above the first bolt. Full 35m from the ground, I think 10 draws.

Second pitch: Short and terrifying. After the first bolt, traverse left, stick your foot out over the void onto the arete for the rest of the pitch. First half is sustained difficult climbing directly on the arete, though sometimes you veer off to the left for some nice jugs. Easy finish to the anchor chains. 18m, 10 draws.

Third pitch: Crux is after the 3rd bolt, right above your belayer, hard face climbing as you work your way to the arete. Leader will quickly climb out of view and hearing range, especially if windy. Beware hornets that occupy a crucial finger pocket around the 4th or 5th bolt; I stuffed a chalk ball in to contain them, you're welcome. Fun arete climbing with jugs but loose rock to watch out for further up, then finish the route on some triumphant easy slabs to the top (protected with one ancient ring if you dare clip it). Also beware this pitch is longer than 35m--one way only! Ropes fall naturally to midair left of the belay station. 14 or 15 draws. Aug 22, 2017
Nick M
 
Nick M  
 
Totally awesome route and striking line! Would recommend it to anyone able. 3 pitches of steep, sustained arete climbing take you to the top of the beautifully odd Steins Pillar. I'd even call it a 'poor man's Backbone' (on Monkey Face). Good rock, super airy and exposed, there's TONS of air below and all around you from the get-go. Not for the squeamish. If this was at Smith it would be a total favorite, and a bit feared.

I felt it deserves a PG-13 rating for a sport climb. Though it's nice and steep and the falls aren't huge, you want to have your wits about you when you pop off and come swinging into the arete (true with any arete climb). Unexpected, out-of-control falls would be uncomfortable.

5.11+ sounds about right. Be prepared to get pretty committed above bolts on steep ground, searching for holds without chalk, with a rattling wind at your back and hundreds of feet of air below your toes. A beautiful climb! Sep 19, 2016