For novelty, length, and position, an ORG must-do.
P1 (11a) -- the grand traverse. Start in alcove at lower right of roof. Crux bet. 3rd and 4th bolt. If you're tall you can clip the 3rd bolt from a secure stemming stance. The rest of the pitch is fairly manageable unless you indulge the rookie impulse/mistake and get too high on the traverse. 15 bolts.
P2 (11a) -- Excellent right off the belay with a definitive crux through the small roof, near the 5th bolt, then backs off. 10 bolts.
P3 (10d?) -- The rock deteriorates, but not the climbing. Weird cups & bowls; some meandering. Crux near end of pitch. 10 bolts.
P4 (11b) -- Tricky. Do full recon (with fingers, not eyes) before committing . Crux passing 2nd bolt. 10 bolts
P5 (11a) -- Turn the first corner low. Then a powerful boulder problem rendered less so on account of heel lever on shelf. 5 bolts.
Descent: rap the route with one 60 meter rope, with the final rappel over the roof to the ground.
15 draws. Long draws or slings helpful on pitches 3 & 4.
Dec 3, 2009
This was by far one of my favorite routes in the gorge. Combines endurance, power, and strength on this long sustained route. Though right after pitch 4, you belay in the gold dihedral does anyone know why the first ascendents didnt go straight up this dihedral? The dihedral itself looks much better than the 5th pitch.
|By Luke Stefurak|
From: Mountain View, CA
Nov 28, 2011
FYI P3 has 11 bolts.
When we rapped the last pitch the top of the "gold dihedral" looked like total choss. It also could have been harder than the FAist wanted.
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c
What a great route! Especially pitches 1 and 4.
I found two quickdraws on pitch 4, send me a message if you want them back.