Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Eldorado Roof
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Disco Inferno S 
Freddie Flores S 
Gape Index S 
Godzilla Does the Dizzy Tango S 
Letter Bomb S 
Looney Binge S 
Slacker S 
Towering Inferno S 

Towering Inferno 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 480'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Lewis, Calder, Croft -- 5/98
Season: The name says it all
Page Views: 7,490
Submitted By: Jonathan Howland on Nov 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
rapping off the 1st pitch anchors.

Description 

For novelty, length, and position, an ORG must-do.
P1 (11a) -- the grand traverse. Start in alcove at lower right of roof. Crux bet. 3rd and 4th bolt. If you're tall you can clip the 3rd bolt from a secure stemming stance. The rest of the pitch is fairly manageable unless you indulge the rookie impulse/mistake and get too high on the traverse. 15 bolts.
P2 (11a) -- Excellent right off the belay with a definitive crux through the small roof, near the 5th bolt, then backs off. 10 bolts.
P3 (10d?) -- The rock deteriorates, but not the climbing. Weird cups & bowls; some meandering. Crux near end of pitch. 10 bolts.
P4 (11b) -- Tricky. Do full recon (with fingers, not eyes) before committing . Crux passing 2nd bolt. 10 bolts
P5 (11a) -- Turn the first corner low. Then a powerful boulder problem rendered less so on account of heel lever on shelf. 5 bolts.
Descent: rap the route with one 60 meter rope, with the final rappel over the roof to the ground.

Protection 

15 draws. Long draws or slings helpful on pitches 3 & 4.


Photos of Towering Inferno Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: first pitch traverse
first pitch traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: 1st traversing pitch, A+ route
1st traversing pitch, A+ route
Rock Climbing Photo: two climbers on the first pitch
two climbers on the first pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: overallRoute TOPO,
overallRoute TOPO,
Rock Climbing Photo: Dede following P1...
Dede following P1...

Comments on Towering Inferno Add Comment
Show which comments
By urs
Dec 3, 2009

This was by far one of my favorite routes in the gorge. Combines endurance, power, and strength on this long sustained route. Though right after pitch 4, you belay in the gold dihedral does anyone know why the first ascendents didnt go straight up this dihedral? The dihedral itself looks much better than the 5th pitch.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Nov 28, 2011

FYI P3 has 11 bolts.

When we rapped the last pitch the top of the "gold dihedral" looked like total choss. It also could have been harder than the FAist wanted.
By steple
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

What a great route! Especially pitches 1 and 4.

I found two quickdraws on pitch 4, send me a message if you want them back.
By Mike Nevko
From: Currently Charlotte
Jul 31, 2014

Timelapse of the route. It super fun, just go for it.

By Mike Holley
From: Boone, NC
Dec 5, 2015

A little moderate gem at the Roof Area!! First Pitch is one of the best horizontal pitches I have ever climbed!! Long Traverse across the rim of the roof through fantastic, reachy holds until your out of sight of your belayer then charge straight up the next couple pitches. Unique, beautiful and certainly worth the BUrn!!!

P.S. The Free hanging rap offers nearly as much fun as the way up!
By Emily McIlvried
Jan 18, 2016

Super stellar climbing the whole way up, that first pitch is money! But be careful not to get your rope stuck on the first rappel... what began as a smooth climb became a cold, dark epic as we tried to free a stuck rope. After ascending we found that the rope wasn't caught on anything in particular, but the rock is very rough and flaky coming over the bulge and created enough friction to make the rope unpullable. Definitely don't do a double rope rappel or it will be stuck forever. Also a single 60m rope is long enough to do all the rappels despite the guide book saying you need a 70. Amazing climb, highly recommended!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!