This is one of The Parks classic ice and mixed routes. Reference Glenn Randall's "Vertigo Games" for some history and cool shots. In that book (1983), The Squid is referred to as "perhaps the most spectacular single ice pitch in Colorado".
It can form as a pure ice route, or as a difficult mixed route, with two significantly different variations. The difficulties can range anywhere from Grade 4+ ice, to WI6 M7.
I have climbed the route as a pure ice route and have also done the right side mixed variation, though left mixed variation is more commonly "in" and usually climbed.
As a pure ice route, P.1 is an amazing pillar/curtain with sustained steep ice. However, due to the amount of sun that the route gets, it also often aerated and chandeliered ice.
P.2 is a moderate 40' pitch to the top of the wall.
As a mixed route, it is a difficult and somewhat runout, traditionally protected climb. The right side variation was perhaps the hardest and scariest single pitch I have ever climbed (Spring '05). Head up the wall beginning in a crack system 20 ft to the right of the dihedral. Runout M4/5 climbing leads to a downward overlap/flake that heads straight left back to the hanging ice. Climb difficult pick-locks, torquing and stein-pulls in the flake, with sparse feet (M7/7+). You will have to place the gear behind you as to not eat up the tool placements. This put us right at the beginning of the hanging ice (see photos). Strenuous campusing on ice was required to establish on the ice proper. SICK-BIRD!!
This route is located on the south face of Flattop, between Dream and Emerald Lake. If it is in, get below it and head uphill. Be aware of avalanche conditions on the approach slopes. ~1.5 h approach.
Descend by walking left (west) from the top.
As an all ice route: Ice screws and a light rock rack for the belay atop P-1.
As a mixed route (right side): Rack to 2", heavier on the tips to finger sizes (grey to yellow TCU), ice screws.
Left side mixed (M6?): Rack to 4 inches....?, Screws.
By Princess Mia
Dec 3, 2014
Approach takes about one hour if there is a good trail. Approximately 1.8 miles and 1,000 vertical feet gained to base of route.
Sun all day! Unless cloudy of course…. LOL
190 feet to the top (give or take). One pitch if all ice, maybe two if mixed….
Rap route with two 60m ropes from tat around tree… bring extra cord/rap rings to replace existing if needed.
From: Vail, CO
3 hours ago
rating: WI6 M1
The right mixed variation is well worth the effort. The protection is good enough though not extremely straightforward. And getting stein pulls on the traverse over to the ice is rad! I started further right in a bizarre chimney. Very awkward. Practice your slab climbing in pons. ;) Still exciting though. Lots and lots of draws and small gear. FUN!