| The Refuge |
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The Torch
Description The Refuge is the valley of Upper Hackberry Creek. We had a great year and a half of developing routes here and are now happy to put these routes out there for more enjoyment. We named it The Refuge as it is not only a refuge from the mining exploration, but also is a particularly peaceful and wildlife-filled region. While it lacks the running water of Devils Creek, it shows obvious signs of plentiful groundwater and hosts all sorts of wildlife beyond cattle. The road through The Refuge connects with a better-traveled dirt road that comes in off 177 and is a fun 4WD adventure trip. There are currently four climbing areas in the Refuge, listed here from north to south (see map): Dog Town; The Torch; Faulty Towers; and Godhead, which is further divided as Godhead North and Godhead South. There is now also an area between the two, Heaven's Gate, that is not shown on the area map in the mini guide. Each area has separate trails in and there are three easy parking areas. We are projecting in other areas and now have an updated mini guide. There are over 80 climbs set and ready for you to explore. The approaches to the various climbing areas are short and easy to find with cairns. We hope you enjoy! Please thank Geir Hundal for posting our mini-guide to this area! Also thanks Melina Lew for much improving the original mini guide with her editing and graphic arts skills. The NEW (August 5, 2012) mini guide is posted here: www.geir.com/refugemini.pdf And, note that the original guide is still posted at: www.geir.com/refugeclimbing.pdf Rock: Rock quality is mixed, ranging from superb for the north facing climbs to quite poor for some of the south- and west-facing climbs. We have done a lot of work cleaning the loose rock away, but there is always the potential for loose holds to remain. Climbs will naturally improve with more use: so, don’t shy away from them. By and large, the quality of climbing is surprisingly good. Ethic: We follow traditional climbing guidelines when setting these climbs by going ground-up and placing bolts only when needed. Note that if the rock quality is poor we will only put in a bolt if we had a 5.5” bolt handy. There are just a few exceptions with some harder routes that we decided to bolt entirely and we call these routes “Sport.” Anchors: We have adapted the EFR approach to top anchors: in most cases we use two hangers with quick links and carabiners (standard). In some cases chain is added to decrease rope drag. When a top belay is advised only two hangers with quick links to rap rings are rigged. NOTE: THE ANCHOR BINERS ARE NOT BOOTY!! Please leave in place. Copying Marcy's photo from LDE, this is what a typical anchor with biners in place looks like unless we've gotten around to painting it. Please follow the ethic of LDE and if you see worn biners replace them or let us know. Thanks and enjoy!
| LDE anchor by Marcy as a good example. Submitted By: arjunmh on Jan 13, 2012
| www.geir.com/refugeclimbing.pdf www.geir.com/refugeclimbing.pdf]]www.geir.com/refugeclimbing>>>
Getting There The Refuge can be accessed from the same gravel road that heads off south from the Magma Mine paved road that you would take to get to all other Lower Devils Canyon climbing areas. At the base of the steep switchbacks turn right on a gravel road—this portion of the road looks like a wash but is actually Hackberry Creek— that heads up the valley that you would have been looking south into as you descended the switchbacks; the stock pond and the windmill can be viewed ahead of you. This valley is the upper extent (headwaters) of Hackberry Creek. Please refer to the overview location map to see how The Refuge is oriented relative to the better-known landmarks for LD.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Refuge:
Browse More Classics in The Refuge
Featured Route For The Refuge
In Alignment 5.10+ AZ : Central Arizona : ... : Heaven's Gate
Farthest left climb of this region to date. Start on relatively poor rock with easy climbing using gear and two bolts before the roof. One bolt protects the roof move while another gets you to a gear protected crux to easier ground. Above the steep lower section access the right leaning face and continue on the oddly aligned formation to the standard anchors. Finding planetary alignment is a must for this climb!... [more] Browse More Classics in AZ
BETA PHOTO: Overview map
| BETA PHOTO: Refuge Climbing areas map
| Ah, la, sometimes we just have to sip espresso and...
| Looking down at The Torch area and DogTown in the ...
| The most excellent seeming, but very hard new proj...
| The Icy Torch!
| Godhead south and heaven's gate area after the 257...
| Faulty towers area after the 257 fire
| 257 Fire in the Refuge; this year.
| the refuge
| The white wolf at the upper end of The Refuge, nea...
| They've started monitoring our new development wor...
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By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Nov 23, 2011
| Note that better resolution topo maps will be in the mini guide and that climb descriptions will all be posted as soon as possible. |
By Geir From: Tucson, AZ Nov 24, 2011
| yay!!!!! i am so glad that you guys have posted up this wonderful area! arjun, david, and friends did a terrific job of putting up some truly fun routes. i was lucky enough to climb a couple of these routes already and have had a great time every time i have gone there. take some time to check out these climbs, they are definitely worth it! |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Nov 25, 2011
| Thanks Geir! You and Marcy were major sources of inspiration for me with your development in LDE. I absolutely LOVED those days of being over there while you two were getting that area going and it was awesome to meet DAS and have a route-setting partner (thanks to Marcy's introduction!) at the same time that the road cleanup gained us such easy access to The Refuge. Yay indeed! Good timing all around, and it continues to be a delightful refuge for us all. Hopefully more can now enjoy. |
By Ben Beard From: Superior, AZ Dec 1, 2011
| As far as the road goes, as of November 2011, if you can drive to Lower Devil's, you are able to drive up to the Refuge. Also, I would recommend helmets for the belayer as there is still some loose there. Nice job on developing the area! Still a lot of rock out there! |
By susan peplow From: Joshua Tree Dec 9, 2011
| I like to see the new stuff getting posted. I'm pretty excited to see what you've done to the area. All this activity just as I leave AZ for CA full-time. Guess I'll start reversing my trips and head east for the cool stuff. Keep 'em coming guys! Very exciting! |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Jan 18, 2012
| Was great to see so many folks out in The Refuge the last couple weekends. Glad to see interest growing and hope you all give us feedback and input to help us improve the area and also any suggestions. Am posting a draft version of a mini-guide (i.e. w/o any formatting and haven't done a detailed proof-read yet) to help as you find your way down there. Please bear with me as I figure out how to get the high resolution images that the topos were based on down to a manageable size for a mini guide. For now, the resolution isn't great. This draft is now posted thanks to Geir on his web site: www.geir.com/refugeclimbing.pdf |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Feb 6, 2012
| Folks, David and I remain psyched to see so many new faces around the Refuge. Glad you're enjoying and do post comments and any input about grades and rock quality as we would love your input. ALSO, PLEASE PICK UP YOUR CIGARETTE BUTTS! We found a bunch of Marlboro butts scattered around at Dog Town yesterday and it was awful. Would really appreciate you picking up your trash and being respectful of the efforts that we and others have put into making this a real refuge. Thanks much! |
By Catherine Conner From: Phoenix, AZ Mar 5, 2012
| Arjun, David - Great job on the Refuge-I love climbing there! Glad it's posted, it's cool seeing people headed out there. So much FUN!!!! |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Mar 5, 2012
| Thanks Catherine! It's very cool to get good feedback and to see so many folks out enjoying the place. Also, I found a blue jacket in Dog Town yesterday and have it with me to return to whoever lost it. Just get in touch. Will post on Dog Town too. |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Aug 5, 2012
| See above Refuge description for link to new mini guide. |
By Geir From: Tucson, AZ Aug 6, 2012
| I just looked over the new Refuge guide and it is fantastic. Nice work!! |
By Ben Beard From: Superior, AZ Aug 19, 2012
| As a result of the fire and the recent rains, the numerous stream crossings on the road to the Refuge (~10 crossings?) have a large amount of mud/silt. If there aren't ruts to drive through, there is a high risk of getting stuck. The mud/silt can be a foot deep. If there has been any recent rains, make sure you have good 4x4 skills or plan on walking the road. |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Oct 2, 2012
| Hanna and I managed to get back in to The Refuge last weekend and it was a terrific day to be out there. Mild in the shade (late morning in Heaven's Gate, after lunch at the Glade Wall) and totally pleasant. Yes, the road's in bad shape after the rains. Yes, it's sad to see the post-fire damage to the groves of trees that helped create the aura of the Refuge, but recovery is a natural part of these cycles. With the exception of the loss of the older oaks and juniper, most of veg will likely be back within a couple years. The soils, on the other hand, will take longer to replenish and so we have much trail work to do to repair the access to the areas. Fun times once it gets cooler for trail work! Lastly, the road is definitely high clearance now and there are a few parts, especially getting back up the switchbacks, that are helped considerably 4WD. |
By Geir From: Tucson, AZ Oct 3, 2012
| Hey Arjun! Psyched to hear thet the Refuge temps are getting comfortable again. I look forward to getting out there and climbing some more of the routes you guys established! |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Oct 4, 2012
| Hey Geir! I was looking back over the years and noting that this is about the time when I've gotten back into LDE (the years before we got into developing The Refuge) and, before that, LD, and so many fond memories of my favorite area. Yes, looking forward to being out with you again soon. And, for a fantastic occasion very soon! On another note, the "pink" rock that David notes in his photo from earlier in the summer turns out to be fire retardant. Hanna and I noted the swaths of pink from on top of our first climb in Heaven's Gate (one of yours and Marcy's) last weekend and investigated more closely when we headed over to Glade Wall after lunch. Well, the helicopter or plane obviously laid down these broad bands of fire retardant to help stop the spread of the fire! So, we've got nicely painted pink rocks all over the place now ... not nearly as bad as it sounds. You should see the turquoise pom-poms. |
By Marcy From: Tempe/Tuscon, AZ Oct 9, 2012
| Thanks for the update, Arjun! Geir and I are planning to be out that way very soon, perhaps as quick break from planning the upcoming festivities in the Stonghold. Looking forward to seeing you and Hanna again! |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Oct 30, 2012
| An excellent weekend in the Refuge and the road improvement that Ben mentioned for LD extends all the way to the drill pad. Such an honor to have Geir and Marcy wind down their climbing honeymoon in The Refuge, and to have Jim come out for the first time and check it out. And, Lori's Jeep gets ready to tackle the road south! |
By Jimbo Oct 31, 2012
| I can't remember the last time I had so much fun climbing. A great combination of great routes and great people. We climbed stuff from 5.7 to 5.11 and it all had great movement on truely unique rock. The horizontals are outrageous for gear and hand holds!! |
By David Arthur Sampson Nov 9, 2012
| Hoot! The season is open. If you are ever looking for me you can find me here! |
By arjunmh From: Phoenix, AZ Nov 26, 2012
| STASH STOLEN!! Am afraid I have bad news to report. David and my development stash was stolen from its hiding place behind rocks and brush just uphill of the Dog Town parking area and camping spot. It was one of those large Action Packers, spray painted brown, and filled with a new static line and 3 dynamic ropes. A big loss in terms of gear, but a bigger loss in terms of our faith in humanity. This theft will obviously result in some seriously bad Karma for whoever took it and this post is just a heads up to our community in case you may have witnessed something, or have word of such gear suddenly for sale somewhere. I will try to keep the faith, but this was a seriously bad discovery yesterday while we were out there on a stellar day. Thanks for any input/help if you have it. |
By Geir From: Tucson, AZ Nov 26, 2012
| I posted up on the Queen Creek page but thought I would add a response here too. Sorry to hear about this David and Arjun! I will be happy to donate to you guys to help recover some of your loss. |
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