Shoshoni has a flat-topped summit, easily reached by hiking cross-country from the Pawnee Pass Trail. However, its southern ramparts loom over the Isabelle Glacier, with both rock and snow climbs to attempt. Several snow climbs in the couloirs above the glacier can be found in Gerry Roach's guide to the Indian Peaks.
For rock climbers, the main attractions are the twin 500-foot buttresses above the Isabelle Glacier trail. The western buttress has a Jeff Lowe-Steve Dieckhoff route (5.10+) on its steepest prow. Right of this is an older route that goes at about 5.9, with some scrambling at the base leading to four steep pitches and another pitch or two of ridge traversing to escape. Several old ring pitons were found on the 5.9 fourth pitch of this route. The eastern buttress was soloed by Jeff Lowe, but the route is not known. A new route has been done on the very steep west face of this buttress.
Descend by scrambling down the gully between the two buttresses or by walking off the back to the Pawnee Pass Trail.
Park at Long Lake trailhead. Walk about four miles, passing Isabelle Lake, to reach the climbs. Allow about two hours.
This is the old route on the right flank of the steep western buttress of Shoshoni. (The Dieckhoff-Lowe Route is to the left.) It's been a long time since I did it (1995), but I remember it having some good 5.8 to 5.9 climbing. We pretty much followed our noses, and on the fourth pitch we found a ladder of ancient ring pitons poking out of a steep headwall. Anyone know when this was done first?Plan for at least one or two pitches to traverse the ridge after you finish the steep climbing. My topo...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
Hiking up from Long Lake, it seems there might be a direct route up the southern edge of the east face of Shoshoni. The route follows a gully system slanting left. It appears to be mostly 4th class although the near the top almost definitely 5th. Anyone have any experience on climbing the east face?