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Shoshoni Peak

Colorado > Alpine Rock > Indian Peaks

Description

Shoshoni has a flat-topped summit, easily reached by hiking cross-country from the Pawnee Pass Trail. However, its southern ramparts loom over the Isabelle Glacier, with both rock and snow climbs to attempt. Several snow climbs in the couloirs above the glacier can be found in Gerry Roach's guide to the Indian Peaks.

For rock climbers, the main attractions are the twin 500-foot buttresses above the Isabelle Glacier trail. The western buttress has a Jeff Lowe-Steve Dieckhoff route (5.10+) on its steepest prow. Right of this is an older route that goes at about 5.9, with some scrambling at the base leading to four steep pitches and another pitch or two of ridge traversing to escape. Several old ring pitons were found on the 5.9 fourth pitch of this route. The eastern buttress was soloed by Jeff Lowe, but the route is not known. A new route has been done on the very steep west face of this buttress.

Descend by scrambling down the gully between the two buttresses or by walking off the back to the Pawnee Pass Trail.

Getting There

Park at Long Lake trailhead. Walk about four miles, passing Isabelle Lake, to reach the climbs. Allow about two hours.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 1
Finnacle Ridge
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
Mass Wasting
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1
South Buttress
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Unknown
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 2
West Side Highway
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Finnacle Ridge
 1
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Mass Wasting
 1
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
South Buttress
 1
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Unknown
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
West Side Highway
 2
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The two rock buttresses of Shoshoni Peak (June 2007). The Dieckhoff-Lowe Route (5.10+) and an unknown 5.9 ascend the left skyline of the left buttress. A new route, Mass Wasting, follows the obvious steep corner system to the top of the right buttress.
[Hide Photo] The two rock buttresses of Shoshoni Peak (June 2007). The Dieckhoff-Lowe Route (5.10+) and an unknown 5.9 ascend the left skyline of the left buttress. A new route, Mass Wasting, follows the obviou…
South face of Shoshoni, September 2012.
[Hide Photo] South face of Shoshoni, September 2012.
Twin towers of Shoshoni 9-1-08.
[Hide Photo] Twin towers of Shoshoni 9-1-08.
Shoshoni from Navajo Peak's Airplane Gully.
[Hide Photo] Shoshoni from Navajo Peak's Airplane Gully.
This shows the two parts distinctly...and a nice ski run between them (with a bit more snow). Maybe bring stuff for both sports?
[Hide Photo] This shows the two parts distinctly...and a nice ski run between them (with a bit more snow). Maybe bring stuff for both sports?
Shoshoni Peak from Lake Isabelle.
[Hide Photo] Shoshoni Peak from Lake Isabelle.
South side of Shoshoni from Navajo Peak.
[Hide Photo] South side of Shoshoni from Navajo Peak.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Hiking up from Long Lake, it seems there might be a direct route up the southern edge of the east face of Shoshoni. The route follows a gully system slanting left. It appears to be mostly 4th class although the near the top almost definitely 5th. Anyone have any experience on climbing the east face? Sep 6, 2010