Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 229 total · 2/month
Shared By: Dougald MacDonald on Aug 24, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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This is the old route on the right flank of the steep western buttress of Shoshoni. (The Dieckhoff-Lowe Route is to the left.) It's been a long time since I did it (1995), but I remember it having some good 5.8 to 5.9 climbing. We pretty much followed our noses, and on the fourth pitch we found a ladder of ancient ring pitons poking out of a steep headwall. Anyone know when this was done first?

Plan for at least one or two pitches to traverse the ridge after you finish the steep climbing. My topo from that day says something about, "You could climb the first gendarme directly or climb a bit and then move left or right. We traversed low on 5.8 or so, scary. (Storm.)" Caveat lector. It does seem from photos that tackling the upper gendarme and ridge directly would add a significant amount of climbing distance and probably quality.


Standard alpine rack.


Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Thank you for posting this route! My partner and I went up there this past summer to attempt to find this line but to no avail. With good weather it would be amazing and a long day to combine this with Kasparov and then descend via Queen's Way on Apache if the snow is there. Thanks again!! Dec 19, 2007
Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
9-1-08; found the route. On the left end of the big grassy ledge. However, I would caution anyone to be well versed & experienced in climbing past (not on) loose rock, and heady, high alpine, old-school ratings. I ran the 1st 2 pitches together and belayed below the opposing dihedrals. it felt like solid 5.8+R to me. As for P2: most of the 5.9 was VS, tricky, dicey, runout, or powerful. Just have your 5.10 head screwed on tight. We probably should have yanked the pins on P3 for historic booty, but didn't.
Re: the pin ladder: you can get a solid #0.75 Camalot next to the first one, then a #1 near the 2nd, and a #3 adjacent & left of the flake.
P.S.: the last 40' is slightly overhanging.
As for P5: a very, very exposed, leaning, downward, 5.9 traverse slightly below the notch, followed by 150' of 4th class.
The remainder is all 3rd class to the summit.
We made the return hike from the Mountain's summit to the parking lot in 1.5 hours. Sep 3, 2008