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Pick Pocket 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: John Bachar, Rick Cashner, 1988
Page Views: 3,549
Submitted By: Tom Helvie on Jul 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (25)
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BETA PHOTO: Pick Pocket Topo

Description 

The first sport route in the gorge. Ground up bolted by John Bachar in the late 80's. This route is easily identified but its copious amounts of chalk. Start off of the boulder and crank hard starting moves up the pocketed face. Halfway up move a little left to gain a good ledge. From the ledge either bust out left to a juggy flake system or continue up and right and then back left on pockets (harder but not as good). The pockets on this climb are amazing.

Protection 

5 quickdraws to lowering anchor


Photos of Pick Pocket Slideshow Add Photo
Leading up Pick Pocket, Holy Trinity area, ORG.
Leading up Pick Pocket, Holy Trinity area, ORG.
Here I am blatantly violating the 'No Posing' rule at Owens.  Pick Pocket, .11a.
Here I am blatantly violating the 'No Posing' rule...
Monica leading Pick Pocket
Monica leading Pick Pocket
After blowing it on lead again, I TR-ed to get the scoop.  The right hand variation at bolt six is indeed the hard way to go. <br />E Neff photo
After blowing it on lead again, I TR-ed to get the...
Pick Pocket, Photo by David Morse
Pick Pocket, Photo by David Morse

Comments on Pick Pocket Add Comment
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By david goldstein
Jul 29, 2006

Folks of less than a certain height (5'9"?) will want to stick clip the first bolt or use gear (~blue Alien) to protect the first move which is a ways off the deck since you start on top of a block.

The crux occurs down low after that it is 10c pulling on some of the finest pockets anywhere.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
May 27, 2008

Fantastic climb on some ridiculously sweet pockets. 6 lead bolts instead of 5. Highly recommended.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Jun 9, 2008

Caught, you got on that route the day before we were looking at it. Hard to pass up .....but we did.

Also, the description states Ayers/Bachar. I believe it was Rick Cashner & John Bachar who put it up in the late 80's.

Good on ya!

~Susan
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
May 29, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Great climb. The moves to reach the flake are fairly reachy if you leave the move left too late. (I updated the FA info)
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 3, 2011

How can it be a sport route if it was bolted from the ground up?
By Tom Helvie
From: Bishop, CA
Nov 3, 2011

"How can it be a sport route if it was bolted from the ground up?"

It's a sport route because it's all bolts to a bolt anchor and they are nice and close together. A high percentage of sport routes are put in ground up. The style of FA doesn't change the fact that a route with a bolt every 8 feet is a sport route, even if it was put up by Bachar.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Nov 13, 2011

Fair enough Tom.