Grand Theft Auto
5.14- YDS 8b+ French 32 Ewbanks X+ UIAA 32 ZA E8 7a British
Avg: 4 from 2 votes
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | Fan Yang, April 2024 |
Page Views: | 238 total · 25/month |
Shared By: | Fan Y on Apr 8, 2024 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
Big and thin moves from the get go. Face climbing at its finest. Four bolts of thin fingery bouldering leads to the wonderful 5.12- headwall shared by Please Baby Baby Bay Please and Honky Special. Soak up the all-star moderate climbing to the mussies.
Because of the improbable-looking nature of the start, I've been asked by several people about the start. I started just slightly to the left of the first bolt (first move for me was a long reach off an obvious and unique left 2-finger pocket) and the line more or less hugs the bolt line. If you find yourself close to the routes on either side, you are off-route and looking at dangerous pendulum falls!
The route is pretty heigh-dependent (probably 13+ if you are taller) and finicky, as is the nature of hard face climbing in the gorge. My proposal is based on my personal journey; your experience may vary! :)
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