Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Paul Linaweaver, Mike Broski, 1991
Page Views: 145 total · 3/month
Shared By: jonathan howland on Apr 24, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Protect Access in Owens River Gorge! Details

Description

What if Steck/Salathe, Chouinard/Herbert, and Hillary/Norgay had said, 'Why bother?"
Thankfully, Broski/Linaweaver didn't either.

Fun moves, and some thoughtful meandering.
Last third chossy.
Direct finish harder than 10b IMO. Indirect finish (to the right), easier than 10b.

Location

The route is well to the right of the famous Sex/Sex Packets buttress, climbing the right side of an obvious face. Starts some 20 feet or more up a gully.

Protection

If leader falls before first bolt, nastiness ensues. Can establish safer belay with 3/4 to 1 inch cams in a crack up and to the right of base.
5 bolts to rusty chains.

Photos

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