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DeAngelo/ Duncan Route (aka Double D) 
Dogma 
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Dogma 

5.11c

   

FA: Brian Mcray and party
Type: Trad, Sport
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length:  Grade V
Views: 1,018 page views

Submitted By: Jer Collins on Sep 22, 2001


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: topo by jer collins


Description 

I am posting a topo of the route instead of describing each pitch in detail. This is all I had to send the route, but it was horrible, so I recreated one. This is a Flyin' Brian line. He says we had the first onsight of the line...

It is absolutely amazing. Take the Black Velvet Wall and drop it 1,000 feet above the desert floor. I believe the line is number 12 in George's photo.

The "VI" is a little misleading. I believe it refers to the commitment level. This is the definition of "desert rockaneering".

jer


Protection 

Cams: #00 TCU to #1 Camalot, 15 QDs, 1 60m rope



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A layout of the major climbing routes on Mt. Wilson. Photo by George Bell

BETA PHOTO: A layout of the major climbing routes on Mt. Wilso...


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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Sep 27, 2005

Don't you need a 70M rope to rap this???

By Xavier Wasiak
Oct 17, 2005

You can rap the entire route with a single 60. 60m twins, though, will get you down lots quicker.

By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Oct 18, 2005

That's funny; I was told by a prominant local that when they tried to rap with a single 60M they came up short on one of the raps.....

By Vernon Stiefel
Mar 28, 2006

"Dogma" offers some fantastic climbing on the east face of Mt. Wilson. While I wouldn't describe the route as being a true sport climb, I only placed a total of five pieces on the first eleven pitches so you won't need an extensive rack. I thought the best pitches were #3 and the crux pitch which begins off of the Sherwood Forest ledge. We didn't climb the final four pitches because there was a deep snowbank on the ledge at the base of pitch #12. We climbed the route with a 70 meter rope which enabled us to safely rappel the route.

By eric coleman
Feb 8, 2007

This is a spectacular route and well worth doing. The Red Rock Canyon guidebook recommends up to a #4 friend, which is unnecessary. A single set of cams up to a #1 camalot is more than enough. The upper pitches require almost no gear, but the route is a lot sportier than Levitation 29, and in my opinion, better. The first two headwall pitches from the last ledge can be linked with a 70 meter rope, giving the follower the opportunity to climb the last four pitches (5.11a, and three 5.8's) in one pitch. The descent can be tricky in the dark. Have fun.

By Mike Schmitt
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.11+

This route is spectacular! However with a 60m rope, we came up short by a LOT (20+ feet) on two of the raps. And on several others, I had to hang from the knots at the end of the rope and reach way below my feet to clip the anchors.

A 70m rope should reach with room to spare, but I think the relatively straightforward First Creek Canyon walkdown descent (which I have done a couple of times) is a much better option than hours of rappelling.