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Mt. Clarence King

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Mt. Clarence King Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,905'
Location: 36.8333, -118.4465 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,729
Administrators: Chris Owen, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide), Emily Roeben
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Jul 13, 2007
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Description 

One of the Sierra's greatest peaks is aptly named after the famous Victorian USGS explorer and author.

Remote and windswept with no walk up, the quintessential High Sierra peak and scene of one of the hardest US climbs of the 19th century - Bolton Brown's South Face Route (I 5.4) which is also the descent.

The summit consists of a tricky little block overhanging the abyss - classic.


Getting There 

This hike is more than an approach; it's a journey unto itself.

Day 1: Hike from Onion Valley (from 395 at Independence) over Kearsarge Pass and down to Charlotte Lake.

Day 2: Take the old shortcut trail (see an old Starr's Guide) from Charlotte Lake to Glen Pass, with wonderful views of the Brewer Group. Descend down the Rae Lakes trail but at the bottom of the pass head NW cross country and over Rae Col and into the magical Sixty Lake Basin, and soon hit the trail from Rae Lakes, follow it for a mile or so deeper into the basin, then scout out a campsite.

On the way out it may be better to take the Sixty Lake Basin Trail past Fin Dome and into Rae Lakes Basin, thence over Glen Pass, Kearsarge Pass, and so to Onion Valley. I've done the hike out in one day a couple of times, so it's doable (about 20 miles).

Climbing Season

For the 10 - Kearsarge Pass to Cedar Grove area.

Weather station 13.3 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Mt. Clarence King
Rock Climbing Photo: North East Ridge of Mt. Clarence King

North East Ridge (full) 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  CA : High Sierra : ... : Mt. Clarence King
This route was discovered and attempted by Pavel Kovar, Vendula Kovarova, Misha Logvinov and Etsuko Sakimura II on September 3rd, 2006. At that time, the party underestimated the commitment and the gear requirements, and ended up bailing from half-point. Pavel Kovar and Misha Logvinov came back two weeks later (September 16-17th, 2006) and climbed the entire ridge. The first ascent party ran out of time the first day and spent a cold night on the summit ridge, a few pitches below the summit.From...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Mt. Clarence King Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. King from the southeast - with cumulus clouds.
Mt. King from the southeast - with cumulus clouds.
Rock Climbing Photo: Rae Lakes, Cotter, and King seen from North Dragon...
Rae Lakes, Cotter, and King seen from North Dragon...
Rock Climbing Photo: Shortcut from Charlotte Lake to Glen Pass.
BETA PHOTO: Shortcut from Charlotte Lake to Glen Pass.
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on Mt. Clarence King
BETA PHOTO: Routes on Mt. Clarence King
Rock Climbing Photo: Fred Batliner at the bottom after a descent of the...
Fred Batliner at the bottom after a descent of the...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sixty Lake Basin environs.
Sixty Lake Basin environs.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fin Dome seen from Mt. King.
Fin Dome seen from Mt. King.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Brewer and North Guard seen from the approach ...
Mt. Brewer and North Guard seen from the approach ...

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