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Routes in Mt. Clarence King

East Face - Ramp Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Ridge Indirect T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North East Ridge (full) T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 800 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Greg Henzie, Galen Rowell August 1970
Page Views: 1,580 total · 12/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Jul 14, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A committing route because of its remote location.

Up snow to the beginning of the ramp.

P1-2 (5.8) Climb the ramp using cracks in the corner and later traversing right to the edge.

P3-5 (Class 3) Pitches heading for the summit exit cracks and ending at a sandy ledge where the face steepens.

P6-8 (5.8) There seem to be choices. Climb steep but well-protected cracks which lead to the east ridge.

The summit block has its moments - so suck up and go.

Solo down the Bolton Brown (South Face) Route (5.4).

Location

Approach from Sixty Lake Basin (to the east).

On the east face, a ramp trending leftward.

Protection

Standard alpine rack - ice-axe (seasonal).

Photos

Gordon Seslar
Wenatchee, WA
 
Gordon Seslar   Wenatchee, WA
 
I climbed this back in '99 it was a fun climb, though it seemed short at the time. Probably wouldn't have done it due to the long approach, but a map reading error took ten miles off and we just pushed through it anyway. No crowds, lots of camp sites and good views of Kearsarge. I've never seen so many mosquitoes though. Mar 11, 2015

More About East Face - Ramp Route

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