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DescriptionMoonstone Beach is Eureka/Arcata's easiest access climbing area. The good quality sandstone and greenstone boulders and cliffs, combined with soft sand landings under most of the boulders, make this a favorite for both the "The-sun's-out-class-can-wait" and the after work crowd. From the parking area there are four main areas with clusters of problems and routes. The rock dries quickly after storms and is climbable all year 'round but it can be foggy in the summer and days of rain in the winter. A rope bag or tarp is recommended when pulling your rope to keep it out of the sand. Moonstone is also THE place to meet partners for other local adventures. Getting ThereTake Highway 101 north from Arcata, exit at Westhaven Drive(just north of Clam Beach), take a left under 101 and left back south and take the first right to the beach. CampingCamping can be found just south at Clam Beach or 15 minutes north at Patrick's Point State Park. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moonstone Beach:
North West Arete V0 Boulder, 20 feet Flat Top Rock
The Triangles V0-1 Boulder, 10 feet North Rocks
South Rock Center V1+ Boulder, 25 feet South Rock
Flake Direct V3 Boulder, 25 feet South Rock
Karen Rock Traverse V3+ Boulder, 70 feet Karen Rock
The Telephone Booth V3-4 Boulder, 12 feet Spire Rock
Karen Crack 5.8 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet Karen Rock
Standard Route 5.9 TR, 60 feet Karen Rock
Flat Top Arete 5.9 TR, 20 feet Flat Top Rock
Pyramid Rock South Face 5.10b TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet North Rocks
No Time aka North Crack 5.10b/c Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet North Rocks
Urchin 5.10c/d TR, 60 feet Karen Rock
Lizard Head 5.10d TR, 40 feet Karen Rock
Assembly Line 5.11a/b TR, Chipped, 60 feet Karen Rock
Sky Hook 5.11 TR, 25 feet Karen Rock
Center Face 5.11 TR, 30 feet Karen Rock
Dream Theme 5.11c TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet Karen Rock
Launch Toast 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet North Rocks
Nightmare 5.12a TR, 60 feet Karen Rock
Sticked Wiffy 5.12b TR, 30 feet North Rocks
Featured Route For Moonstone Beach
Nightmare 5.12a CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Karen Rock
Nightmare begins by climbing the first half of Dream Theme. Where Dream Theme traverses right, after the large hueco, continue up and left through a blocky bulge to a horn of lighter colored rock. Make a difficult cross through to a series of large but sloping holds, make a couple of moves on these and then continue straight up to the anchor....[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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