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Moonstone Beach 


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Lat, Long: 41.03, -124.1125 Map
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Administrators: Rick Shull, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Rick Shull on Nov 2, 2006

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Richie cranking on the South Triangle Boulder in p...

Description 

Moonstone Beach is Eureka/Arcata's easiest access climbing area. The good quality sandstone and greenstone boulders and cliffs, combined with soft sand landings under most of the boulders, make this a favorite for both the "The-sun's-out-class-can-wait" and the after work crowd. From the parking area there are four main areas with clusters of problems and routes. The rock dries quickly after storms and is climbable all year 'round but it can be foggy in the summer and days of rain in the winter. A rope bag or tarp is recommended when pulling your rope to keep it out of the sand. Moonstone is also THE place to meet partners for other local adventures.

Moonstone Trivia:
#1 Many of the moderate topropes were pioneered in the 60's or earlier by Andy Montgomery, a minister from Arcata who trained on a wall he built inside the bell tower of his church.

#2 The Moonstone outdoor clothing company was started by the beach caretaker in a tin-can trailer on this beach.


Getting There 

Take Highway 101 north from Arcata, exit at Westhaven Drive(just north of Clam Beach), take a left under 101 and left back south and take the first right to the beach.

A guidebook is available at outdoor shops in Arcata and Eureka.


Camping 

Camping can be found just south at Clam Beach or 15 minutes north at Patrick's Point State Park.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Moonstone Beach:
North West Arete   V0     Boulder, 20 feet   Flat Top Rock
The Triangles   V0-1     Boulder, 10 feet   North Rocks
South Rock Center   V1+     Boulder, 25 feet   South Rock
Flake Direct   V3     Boulder, 25 feet   South Rock
Karen Rock Traverse   V3+     Boulder, 70 feet   Karen Rock
The Telephone Booth   V3-4     Boulder, 12 feet   Spire Rock
Karen Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Karen Rock
Standard Route   5.9     TR, 60 feet   Karen Rock
Flat Top Arete   5.9     TR, 20 feet   Flat Top Rock
Pyramid Rock South Face   5.10b     TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   North Rocks
No Time aka North Crack   5.10b/c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   North Rocks
Urchin   5.10c/d     TR, 60 feet   Karen Rock
Lizard Head   5.10d     TR, 40 feet   Karen Rock
Assembly Line   5.11a/b     TR, Chipped, 60 feet   Karen Rock
Sky Hook   5.11     TR, 25 feet   Karen Rock
Center Face   5.11     TR, 30 feet   Karen Rock
Dream Theme   5.11c     TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet   Karen Rock
Launch Toast   5.11d     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   North Rocks
Nightmare   5.12a     TR, 60 feet   Karen Rock
Sticked Wiffy   5.12b     TR, 30 feet   North Rocks
Browse More Classics in Moonstone Beach

Featured Route For Moonstone Beach
Reaching through the blocky bulge on Nightmare, 12a.

Nightmare 5.12a  CA : Redwood Coast : ... : Karen Rock
Nightmare begins by climbing the first half of Dream Theme. Where Dream Theme traverses right, after the large hueco, continue up and left through a blocky bulge to a horn of lighter colored rock. Make a difficult cross through to a series of large but sloping holds, make a couple of moves on these and then continue straight up to the anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Moonstone Beach Slideshow Add Photo
Sun, sea & sand - Marc entering the crux of Dream Theme (5.11c), Moonstone Beach

Sun, sea & sand - Marc entering the crux of Dream ...

Jim Hammerle leading Karen Crack on Karen Rock.

Jim Hammerle leading Karen Crack on Karen Rock.

Seaweed and surf, Moonstone Beach

Seaweed and surf, Moonstone Beach

The end of another great day, Moonstone Beach

The end of another great day, Moonstone Beach

Pelicans and surf, Moonstone Beach

Pelicans and surf, Moonstone Beach

Looking inland, Moonstone Beach

Looking inland, Moonstone Beach

Bouldering on the beach.

Bouldering on the beach.

YEAH

YEAH

THE MAN THE MYTH THE LEGEND  <br />PAUL HUMPHREY

THE MAN THE MYTH THE LEGEND
PAUL HUMPHREY


Karen Rock

Karen Rock

south end

south end

I like my drysuit . . .

I like my drysuit . . .

Fun routes.

Fun routes.


Comments on Moonstone Beach Add Comment
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By Rick Shull
Administrator
From: Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
Dec 15, 2008

The Holladay-Hatfield is still there, although the hangerless bolts have been looking pretty bad for 15 years. The trees and shrubs seem to have overtaken the route.

By evanwish
Apr 30, 2010

I'm trying to figure out where this climb is exactly. The guidebook has "Holladay Traverse" as 5.10 and "2 old hangerless bolts, shrub belay, 35 feet" but the guide shows that one on the south side of North Rock... Any clarification?