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Mole's Corner 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Submitted By: Aerili on Sep 28, 2010
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Description 

A short but beautiful almost laser-cut corner with a small roof to finish. This route would be classic if it was 2-3 times longer.


Location 

To the right of Telegraph Crack and directly up the hill from Nova Express. Rap anchors located just above the roof.


Protection 

Gear to 2" possible. Expect this route to be more "in your face" for the grade than Telegraph Crack.



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By Tyson W.
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Sep 23, 2012

Agreed with description. If this was longer it would be on par with something like Perfect Lieback in woodfords canyon. Really cool movements in the corner. Protects well.

By Spandex
From: East Bay, CA
Jul 4, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Though short, a persistent dihedral with delicate footwork, especially for the grade. I believe I placed a BD .4, .5, a 2 deeper in 3/4 of the way up or so, and a .75 or 1 for the roof, which is cake with a jug a short reach away. True: at least 2 or 3 times longer and this would be really something. The stemming moves are really awesome for how brief the route is.

Conditions: I did this 6/2/13 and there were no rap rings; I lowered off two draws to clean, then hiked up 4th and easy 5th on the right side to retrieve draws.

By SoCo
From: Sacramento, CA
Jul 29, 2013

Route is only 40' but worth it. If it was 50'+ or longer, it would be crawling with crack addicts all day.

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Aug 25, 2013

A stubby specimen. The ladies wish it were longer. Not very taxing with good technique (i.e. a minimum of liebacking), but pretty fun after a bit of Morse code.

BTW: Those huge, thick ass metolius hangers are what you rap off. I wouldn't lower but a rap is fine through those.

By marc g
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 7, 2013

+1 to what spandex said. spot on