The Stranger Within
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 90 ft (27 m)|
|FA:||Steve Glotfelty, 1989|
|Page Views:||346 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Matt Miccioli on Aug 2, 2020 · Updates|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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Climb easy, featured corners 10 feet to the left of Telegraph Crack until a leftward traverse along a foot rail takes you to a small bulge. Pull over with crimps and seams and continue up the steep slab on small features. The crux comes after the lone bolt and involves a tenuous rockover to the left on minuscule crimps. Easy featured slab (dirty!!) to the top.
The Horniak guide shows a bolted anchor lower on the face, but we did not find it. Instead there are two very rusty cold shuts on the ledge at the top of the wall. I would recommend traversing right to use the better anchor for Telegraph Crack about 6 feet lower. The author also suggests 11c/d for the grade, but that seems like a hefty sandbag. Go up there expecting a 12- with spicy gear, friable footholds, and lots of lichen. In its current state, the route seemed like a harder onsight than Bell Bottom Blues.
With replaced anchors, a heavy cleaning, and--dare I suggest--another bolt or two, this route could become part of the typical Snowshed circuit.
An emphasis on cams in the 0.1-0.4 range and offset nuts should see you through. Many of the placements are suboptimal, and there's usually a variety of dubious choices--a real engineering challenge. The crux bolt seems to be on the older side but held several falls (much better than the anchors at least).