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Me on the Mental Block Standard (in 1973 and clim...
|Southeast Reservoir was closed and is no.|
Can this be most favorite problem too? Find the Mental Block about 100 yards north of the Eliminator Boulder guarded by the smaller Tiger Rock, amidst some trees downhill from a break in the ridgeline. Standard climbs incuts and crimps just left of Pinch Overhang. Grab a left sidepull, a right underclingy sidepull and crank up a couple of moves, then pull the insecure mantel off without becoming one with bushes, rocks and your spotters. Beautiful and thrilling moves.
Spot and pads for sure sure, unless you have some sort of deathwish. It's called mental block for a reason - the topouts.
Me in 1973 doing the "Standard" in PAs (remember t...
Toping out! (c) Jesse Ryan 2001
BETA PHOTO: Just a pretty picture of the line on a nice late O...
BC on the Mental Block.
|Comments on Mental Standard
|By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn|
Jan 4, 2002
Sorry, but by the guidelines at this site, this is a chipped route of the blacklist quality. There aren't too many of us left that remember the original landing, but the landing as it is at the Mental Block now is a total manufactured route. Several hundred pounds of rock and several trees and bushes had to be removed to create the current landing. The original landing was more akin to the landings at Chaos Canyon, NOT the gym flat landing that exists now! And there wasn't even the idea of a pad or a spot. We just went up there by ourselves to climb, not be involved with the newest scene or video. The "Mental Block" of Gill's day is long gone and maybe it's time to rename this the "Building Block" in honor of all the little kids fresh out their kindergarden gym thinking this is a scary problem.
|By Mike Beshore|
Apr 15, 2002
Listen. I don't know what the landing below the Mental Block looked like back in the 60's, but I do do know that this boulder poses different problems on any given day (weather, erosion, etc.). Even on the same route. That's what makes bouldering great. Once your in the process of topping out the Mental Block there is no such thing as a good landing, unless you look at the mess of thickets way below as a good landing.
|By Krister Sorensen|
From: Centennial, CO
Aug 16, 2003
I love this problem. It took me a long time to send and it was a great day when it went. Old Fart, come on man, the landing is still scary. You can deffinatly break some bones on the boulder. Although I would say that a couple of pads and a good spotter makes this problem much less scary, but just as hard. Pinch is still very scary with four pads and still very hard.
Dec 2, 2005
This is a prime example of how climbing is being pussified with every new generation. kids boulder v5 right out of the gym but have no idea about the history of climbing. the surge in bouldering has taken the adventure out of climbing (unless you are doing highballs with death landings). This problem has a great landing, dont kid yourself. even pinch isn't bad the topout is only 12 feet up!. the amount of glue on the mental block does make me quite sad. oh well guess we have to find a new area to pioneer in a more pure style. hats off to all those old hardmen that climbed 5.11r and bouldered without pads, to me thats what climbing is all about
|By Ricky Newman|
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 19, 2007
Lately, someone has decided to garden the landing of Mental Block, removing two large stones that are crucial in preventing further erosion of the landing area. I have spent several minutes moving these rocks back into place with my friends on several occasions but, when I return they are simply moved again. With the increased amount of young climbers entering the sport (myself included) I figured we all should realize that removing rocks from the landings of other people's problems (especially classics like Mental Block) is not only disrespectful to every other climber but is also leaving an impact. To those who moved the rocks at Mental Block; if you are worried about the landing, take the 15 minutes you would need to clear the rocks and set up a top rope!
|By Will Oviatt|
From: Bellvue, CO
Feb 11, 2011
This is a great problem in the park. Very delicate, with only a few moves. I am thinking the debate on the landing is quite silly.