Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,484 total · 8/month
Shared By: Jeb Gorham on Mar 31, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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Link a SDS into Barndoor Layback (V3) from the right southwest corner on Mental Block. Start on a right hand sidepull and a left hand crimp, bust out to a left gaston, heel hand match on the right, match hands, move over and up to the left hand pinch (of pinch overhang), settle, reach for the layback and pop the mental mantle finish.


Several crash pads to cover the uneven landing area.


Jeb, your description and photos are awesome. Pictures speak a thousand words. Jun 16, 2004
Does every inch of rock need to be a new route? John Gill already did that, one night when he was drunk and and bored without crashpads. This bouldering thing is getting out of hand. I am sure if you search it out hard enough there are pleanty of new inches to climb. Oh, sorry, I mean boulder in between many classic Horsetooth problems.... Jun 25, 2004
Anonymous Coward, you obviously don't climb at Horsetooth very much. There are almost as many variations and squeeze jobs at Rotary Park as there are at Morrison. OK, I may be exaggerating slightly, but not much. Jun 25, 2004
Use the force, Brent. Jun 27, 2004
Jeb, I'm sorry to rain on your parade, but I have for sure seen several people do that problem several years ago. Mental Block has been worked over pretty hard since its discovery, and just about every variation under V13 including "your problem" has been done. There are plenty of unreported problems at Rotary. Jul 13, 2004
So, I showed this to a guy whom you all probably know very well for his climbing and bouldering influence, but I will not reveal his name because I don't know if he would want me to. Anyway, he said that people have been climbing that problem for years, and it even has a name which I cannot remember. So sorry, Jeb, but just because there is not chalk on it does not make it a new problem. Jul 19, 2004
Andy, lighten up a little on Jeb. Maybe he was a little presumptous in thinking this was a new route but that's a common occurrence in bouldering. It looks a fun problem, albeit a bit contrived. If others have climbed it, we'd love to know the history. If you can remember the name to the problem, it would be a good addition to this site. Jul 20, 2004
I did this problem at least two years ago, it was probably done in the seventies. It's only V3, maybe a V4. Dec 2, 2005