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Routes in Mental Block

Barndoor Layback V3+ 6A+
Contrived Crimpers V3 6A PG13
Cornerlock V4 6B
Face Full Of Greens AKA Fist Full Of Greens V4-5 6B+
Face Full of Knees V8-9 7B+
Mental Block Traverse V9 7C
Mental Standard V4 6B
Mental X V5 6C
Pinch Overhang V5 6C
Standard Lock V6 7A
Tiger Face V2- 5+
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: S. Mammen
Page Views: 1,707 total, 10/month
Shared By: Andy Mauk on Mar 23, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Start over the the left of the boulder under the roof. Make your way right, across corner lock and standard and then finish on pinch overhang.

Protection

A few pads are always good. Make sure you have pads at the end of the traverse because you end on Pinch Overhang.

Photos

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How is the R-L way harder? Is the north face section more difficult? Seems like starting on the Pinch and moving left would be easier because it eliminates the crux of doing Pinch Overhang at the end of the traverse. I've tried the R-L version but only went as far as Standard before topping out. That version is awesome. Apr 15, 2004
I know that Will L. did the FA of the L-R traverse after the block broke off. The L->R way is harder [corrected]. Apr 15, 2004
I enjoy working this from the other direction (into the pinch). Turning the corner from corner lock to standard is a real hoot. The final moves falling into the pinch hold and basically doing the pinch overhang after churning through all the previous moves makes this thing friggin' hard! Still a project I enjoy working.

MF Mar 31, 2004
F.A. Steve [Mammen]..... "Back in the day"; when Steve showed it to me; he started from the "Pinch" and traversed left to finish under the N overhang. The crux was getting past the "Standard" route and dropping down onto the incredibly sharp prickly rail that runs across the start of the "Fingerlock". Mar 31, 2004
I think Steve Mammen did the FA. Mar 30, 2004
I think John Sherman did the FA but then the loose block on the north face has since fallen off. That makes the starting moves of the traverse a bit harder. I'm not entirely sure if it's been sent since (it's probably been done). It's a damn fine problem. Mar 29, 2004