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My Guitar Wants to Kill Your Momma 


YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: MJM & RAMM 6/05
Page Views: 1,948
Submitted By: MJM on Jun 14, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: JA halfway through Malmsteen.


Climb past several cruxy moves off the deck to a great rest. Gain the short vertical face for 2 clips and then climb right of the arete for four clips.
Cruise the sustained face for a few clips to the bulge. Gain the bulge and go straight up to the anchors with some thinker moves along the way.


The middle route on the Main Wall.


13 clips to anchors.

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By Aeon Aki
Jun 16, 2008
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

To avoid an unnecessary pump and perhaps a bit cussing and spitting, climb past the anchors to clip them. Other than that, this is one of the best 5.10s in the canyon.

By Patrick Pharo
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 21, 2008

The new guidebook lists this as 80 feet, but that is incorrect. A 50 meter rope will not make it down. Great route.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Mar 30, 2009

The first clip is a lil' spooky. When in doubt stick clip, or be glad you have long arms.