Avg: 2.3 from 50 votes
Routes in G3
|Great Fact, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a|
|Guitar Hero S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Malmsteen S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|My Guitar Wants to Kill Your Momma S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Satch S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Sheehan S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|T-Mac S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Vai S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|Type:||Sport, 80 ft|
|FA:||MJM & RAMM, 8/05|
|Page Views:||188 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2008|
|Admins:||Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionVai is a great new (relatively) moderate addition, and one of the best "new" routes in the park. The climb is marred somewhat by an unfortunately difficult boulder problem start that guards 3-star 5.10 climbing on the upper headwall.
Begin below a leaning dihedral/arete, with powerful, insecure liebacking up the leaning corner. Work the right hand up the arete to a long reach to a jug. Move left and mantle the ledge for a no-hands rest at the 3rd bolt. From here the climbing is more like mid-5.10, easing as you ascend. Float the beautiful panel with a rising rightward traverse to the arete, and then back left to another good ledge and shake. A short easier-than-it-looks bulge leads to a juggy diagonal crack. One more hard-ish move exits the crack, where 2 more bolts of jugs end at the chains.
I wonder which guitarist this one's named for?