Type: Sport, Boulder, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: MJM & RAMM, 8/05
Page Views: 649 total · 4/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jun 30, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Vai is a great new (relatively) moderate addition, and one of the best "new" routes in the park. The climb is marred somewhat by an unfortunately difficult boulder problem start that guards 3-star 5.10 climbing on the upper headwall.

Begin below a leaning dihedral/arete, with powerful, insecure liebacking up the leaning corner. Work the right hand up the arete to a long reach to a jug. Move left and mantle the ledge for a no-hands rest at the 3rd bolt. From here the climbing is more like mid-5.10, easing as you ascend. Float the beautiful panel with a rising rightward traverse to the arete, and then back left to another good ledge and shake. A short easier-than-it-looks bulge leads to a juggy diagonal crack. One more hard-ish move exits the crack, where 2 more bolts of jugs end at the chains.

I wonder which guitarist this one's named for?

Location

This is on the RIGHT G3 Wall, the 3rd route from the left, or the 2nd from the right. It is immediately right of Malmsteen.

Protection

12 bolts to 2 BA, currently sporting fixed biners. Stick clip the first bolt.

Photos